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Found 8 results

  1. So I have a stock 2000 Dodge Neon that I'm lifting with custom made spacers, just looking for a little extra clearance. I want to get some bigger off-road/all-terrain tires that I can fit on the stock steel rims. My current tires are 185/70R14, the lug pattern is 5x100. I'm unsure of the rims specific measurements though. I've been all over the web but I can't figure out what the most cost-effective way of doing this is. It's a beater that I'm taking to the Gambler 500 so I don't want to go out and buy brand new rims and tires... Should I just buy an old rim and tire set off someone and try to find a lug adapter? Can I find all-terrain tires to fit my stock steel rims? I understand I'll have to cut up the body to fit them but I'm not worried about that.
  2. I have a 2014 Volkswagen Jetta 1.8T SE, and I want to buy new rims and some coilovers for it. Do I need to get different sized rims or can they be the same size as they are now? If they can be the same size they are now, I don't know what size my rims are now. What size should I get? Should i get the coilovers or the rims first? How big should they be?
  3. How It Works: Wheel separations When it comes to preventing wheel separations, it's all about the right maintenance done at regular intervals Few things are more terrifying than the thought of a flying truck wheel crashing through your windshield. Despite safety regulations and industry policies, they’re still coming off. And while you might think it’s just big trucks, an alarming number of consumer vehicles and trailers regularly lose wheels as well — and that can be just as deadly. It’s all about the right maintenance done at regular intervals. Separations in both commercial and consumer vehicles generally occur when the wheel comes off its mounting studs, or when component failure causes the hub and wheel to detach. Although it’s far less common, a tire that’s improperly inflated can also come off the rim. The wheels go on over threaded studs and held on with nuts that are tightened up against them, and that’s where things can start to go wrong. If the nuts aren’t tight enough, there’s a possibility they can gradually unscrew and fall off. But even if they stay on, the wheel can wobble on the stud, which can widen the mounting hole in the rim as well as weaken the stud. While it seems that “tighter is better” might fix the issue, it doesn’t. Too-tight nuts are as bad as those that are too loose. Over-tightening the nut can stretch the stud, which can actually reduce the clamping force that holds the wheel on the hub. It can also crack or cross-thread the wheel nut, or even warp the brake rotors Manufacturers usually specify the clamp force and how much torque is required when installing the wheel nuts, depending on the application. However, not all tire installers may bother to check the specifications and will just tighten the nuts until they’re snug instead of using a torque wrench to verify it. It’s also recommended that the nuts be re-torqued after the vehicle’s been driven for a specified distance — usually 50 to 100 kilometres — but many drivers don’t bother going back to the shop. It’s rather telling that in one study, many wheel separations on light-duty vehicles happened not long after the vehicle had been serviced — either for tire replacement, brakes, or other repairs that required removing the wheels — and the driver had not come back in the recommended time for the nuts to be re-torqued. Other studies show that lost wheels often spike in fall and spring, concurrent with large numbers of drivers taking their vehicles for their seasonal tire changeover. Having the nuts re-torqued after a tire change or wheel service is considered vital for big trucks, but not all fleet operators want to take their vehicles off the road long enough for a quick service. Experts studying big-truck wheel separations also noted that with many failures, the hub and wheel hadn’t been properly cleaned before installation. This means dirt, debris, or corrosion can act like spacers between the hub and wheel, leaving it loose when they’re eventually dislodged during driving. In some cases, though, the wheel stays attached, and it’s the hub, bearing, or other suspension component that fails and breaks away. It’s more likely on heavy trucks, but it can happen on consumer vehicles as well. In a few cases it’s an error during servicing, such as a technician installing a part incorrectly or forgetting to put a cotter pin on the end of the hub, or the truck being overloaded. But more likely, it’s due to lack of maintenance, including insufficient lubrication, corrosion, or leaking seals. On a newer consumer vehicle, it’s likely that steering and suspension components that used to require regular scheduled maintenance are now permanently lubricated and sealed. However, some older vehicles may still require their wheel bearings to be greased — as well as trailers, especially boat trailers that are regularly dunked in water. Seized bearings are the main reason you see trailers broken down on the side of the highway. Drivers should also take their vehicles in for service if they hear a crunching or clunking sound in the front end, or if the front tires are wearing unevenly. This could indicate a ball joint that’s about to fail. These components attach the hub and wheel to the steering assembly; if you see a vehicle with one front wheel tucked in under it, that’s a broken ball joint. To help prevent your own wheel issues, have your vehicle serviced according to its recommended schedule. When you have your wheels removed, take them back for a checkup within the suggested interval. You can’t guarantee that others are taking the same safeguards, but there are some precautions you can take to give yourself a fighting chance. When you’re scanning traffic when driving, take a quick glance at other vehicles’ tires. If you see a bit of a wobble, keep your distance. It might just be a hubcap that’s not on straight, but if it falls off, drivers swerving to avoid it can cause a crash. Be especially careful around trucks, cars, and trailers that look like they could use some maintenance. If something does let go, you don’t want to be in the line of fire.
  4. A question to the car fanatics out there. I was dubbed with a research paper about wheels, aftermarket wheels none the less. It would be great help if some of you could pass on some information on the most popular aftermarket wheels.
  5. Hey all, So my MR2s alignment is spot on, but all four of my tires are wearing on the outer edge of the tread (front right tire is the worst.) Any clues to what this might be from?
  6. I am buying a Unregistered vehicle. It's a 1994 Toyota Hilux Ute/Tradie Vehicle. The original wheels are too large and will not pass the Road Worthy Certificate (RWC). I would swap my Dad's 5 stud wheels with the ute's 5 stud wheels for the RWC test. My parents wheels are 14 inch rims and should be small enough but I read somewhere that the tradie vehicles fall under a heavy vehicle or transport vehicle classification or something like that which means they need heavy or heavier duty wheels and that the standard (Wagon) wheels are illegal. Is that correct or shouldn't I worry for the Roady test? Do I need to buy the original second hand hilux wheels for it to be road worthy? please help I also don't know anyone to sell me the original toyota wheels so this could become a huge headache. Stupid vehicle legality laws
  7. Like new (less than 5,000 miles) set of 4 original tires and rims off of 2014 Camero. Bought different tires and rims, theses have under 5,000 miles on them and are in perfect shape. 18 inch rims with P245/55R18 BFGoodrich radial tires. Daughter received new wheels for Christmas! Mason, Ohio
  8. I NEED HELP FAST, PLEASE GIVE ME YOUR IMPUT Okay so I've had this problem for about 2 weeks or so, I own a 2006 Lincoln zephyr, it is a v6, 3.0L, with FWD. After switching the back breaks on my car(new pads, new rotors), i bought 2 used tires, during the install the guy toldme I have abent rim and he will put it in the back so my wheel doesn't shake, after I left the shop I noticed intense vibration on the driver side plus a loud noise as if the tire was loose hitting something and rubbing agains something, went back got it put in the back. I still hear the sound just quiet and in the back, car still vibrates. The car vibrates a little(feeling it when I put my feet on the ground not the pedals) at all time, vibration is sort of under the seat and by the pedals. The car jerks/bumps at really slow speeds (0-15mph) and when I break, but only when I slow down or lightly press the break pedal. When pressed hard it doesn't do that. Every time I start my car it's not that bad but then it gets worst. I know I need my breaks bleeded but could that be the problem?? Or what can it be? This has probably nothing to do with it, but I did get subs put in the car recently, and I have noticed a clicking sound comin from the engine. Sounds like maybe one of the valves.
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