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Found 23 results

  1. Hi there, I have a 1992 Jeep Cherokee XJ that has had the engine swapped for what I think is a 1995 Cherokee Engine that is the 6 cylinder variant. I have the automatic transmission. I think it is the 3 speed but I am not quite sure. When I got it, it would start but quickly sputter out unless I floored it. I then discovered it had a leaky line from the transmission to the radiator. I then quickly fixed this line with hose clamps and such. I dumped around 1.5 gallons of transmission fluid in and it was able to run and stay running, although in a very rough state. I got it drivable and noticed that past 1500 RPM, the transmission would slip. I added another gallon and now the transmission can get up to around 3000 RPM before slipping. I also notice that when I start the car, it idles very rough for around 5 seconds while in park and then smooths out. When I shift into reverse or forward drive, it idles rough again. Sometimes when I filled the transmission too quickly the overflow valve would let a little fluid out. I let the car sit and then I could keep pouring. I should also note that the transmission was filled while the vehicle was off and then I would run it for a while. At this point it still slips and while the vehicle runs, I don't know if adding more fluid is the solution as I think there is around 3.5 gallons of transmission fluid in the system right now. The more I add the less it seems to slip, but should I keep adding more? Is there a different solution?
  2. I'm wanting to get a Ford Ranger (2008 XLT is ideal) and do an engine swap (small block 350) and a transmission swap for an ALL WHEEL drive; not 4 wheel drive. Is this possible and is so what do y'all recommend? Trying to keep this as low budget as possible while still being somewhat reliable.
  3. I need some advice on a used car. Someone is offering me a 2007 Mazda3 (automatic) for $2400 and he said that it only had its transmission fluid changed at 50k miles; it currently has 123k miles. I should add that he was adamant about not changing the transmission fluid on Japanese cars and that it was his brother (first owner) who had changed it at 50k miles before lending it to him. So I took it upon myself to do a bit of research and from what I could tell, he was false in saying you should not change transmission fluids in Japanese cars, being that they are not an exception. Regardless, from what I have seen online, an automatic transmission should have its fluid changed in intervals anywhere from 30k to even 100k miles. The car drove pretty well in a test drive, so if I were to take the car and do a transmission fluid change right away, would that be a safe fluid change interval (73k miles), such that the car's life span would not be compromised? Also, he mentioned that the wheel may need a realignment, is this just a minor issue?
  4. I have a 2008 Hyundai Accent. About 4 months ago, it started to present a bunch of issues over the course of a week. I'll list them, to keep it short. Usually doesn't start in park Usually starts in neutral (if not, letting the car move a little in neutral usually fixed it) Usually doesn't go in reverse (some days it would work fine, other days, it wouldn't go in reverse at all) No PRNDL lights on dash (the area is blank where it usually is) Not shifting gears properly, downshifting suddenly when driving, starting in 2nd gear "Lurching" when put into drive or reverse (when working) Check engine light reading the "neutral safety switch" Some unrelated issues that I don't think are relevant, but I'll list them anyways. This car is a piece of garbage, afterall. TPSM light on Airbag light on The following repairs were attempted (in this order) to solve the problem. It was mostly fixed the problem, temporarily (for about 3 months, and now it's worse than ever) Neutral safety switch replaced Transmission output sensor replaced Transmission input sensor replaced Transmission oil pan replaced (it was cracked) Transmission oil drained + replaced As of today, I took the car to a transmission specialist. I believed it was a wiring issue, considering I'd replaced nearly every "part" that it could have been, besides the transmission. He too told me he believed it was a wiring issue. After looking at it for a whole 4 days, he calls me and just tells me "the transmission has an internal error", and that it needs to be replaced. The PRNDL switch is a symptom of transmission failure. I pressed about it a little bit, asking why he thought it was a transmission failure, and he gave me a loop around and didn't say anything else. I am not a car guy, so please tell me if I'm wrong, but this doesn't make any sense to me. Why would a PRNDL switch error reading on my check engine light be a symptom of a failed transmission? And why did I go 4 months with it driving nearly fine? Any, ANY help would be appreciated. I'm not really sure where to turn.
  5. I am reposting because 182 people looked at my original post but noone actually replied and I still need help with my transmission fluid. I bought a 1997 ford escort lx(wagon). It has a manual transmission. I am not well versed in cars so I had a friend who is come with me and look at the car. I have to change the transmission fluid as the people I bought it from told me they never did when they had it because they couldn't figure it out. I looked at a ford manual that said I should have a dipstick to be able to check. I either can't find it or it doesn't have one and my friend looked at it and told me he doesn't see the dipstick and doesn't know how to change the fluid because of it. I am now waiting for the transmission to just go bad so I can replace it with one that does have a dipstick to avoid future hassle. Do some 1997 escort wagons just not have dipsticks?? Do I just not have to worry about it since it won't even let me check the thing?? Any advice would be appriciated.
  6. I bought a 2007 Hyundai Tiburon GS recently for cheap. I think it may need a new transmission. I am getting it diagnosed (and only diagnosed) later today at the dealership, but I am wondering if there is specific knowledge a mechanic needs for this car's transmission swap. It is an automatic, 4 cylinder, 2.0L transmission. I want to say I read somewhere (can't find it now) that it needs a specific fluid (maybe the transmission fluid?) That was actually some type of Mitsubishi fluid or something? I also thought I had read somewhere that it has something special about a shift-something? I don't remember what it said, and I can't find the info now. Does anyone know anything about these cars? I want to make sure whoever I send it to knows what they are doing with my car. Also, if anyone has an opinion on what could be wrong, it would be greatly appreciated. Here's what it is doing: -The car can be driven around for about 15 minutes or so with no problems, then all of a sudden, it will start jerking when shifting into 2nd gear it seems. -The jerking was very hard (the hardest I've ever felt in a car with transmission issues) and it almost seemed to downshift (I don't know about the rpms and what-not, I'm a girl, cut me some slack) -I brought her in to the mechanic and they fixed an O2 censor, I believe (my boyfriend handled it as I am completely inept about cars :/) which they said could be the cause of the issue? -After I got her back, the car, yet again, showed no signs of it until I drove it for a while (temperature related?), And then it started jerking at 2nd gear again, ONLY, not even close to as hard as it was before, but it is happening more frequently now? (Something to do with the O2 censor work?) -The car was originally throwing up vacuum leak codes (but they fixed the O2 censor?) -The mechanic said the oil and the transmission fluid looks fine, and that actually the transmission fluid looks so good that they think it has been flushed or drained and filled recently I know this may not be much info to go off of, but does anyone have an opinion on the matter? I would greatly appreciate any advice. Other weird things the car is doing, but not sure if it is related or not: -When I get the car up to 50mph or more, outside air seems to blow through my vents into the cabin of the car. The car defaults to the outside air circulation button. This also creates air rushing noise (quite annoying) -Side mirrors aren't working -OEM stereo/faceplate is still in the car and is either not hooked up properly or there is another underlying issue as it acts like there is a short in it and I cannot get it to work to test my speakers If I think of anything else I will update. I have not been able to really drive this car yet, so I don't have much to go off of. Thanks!
  7. Hello everyone. I have a 2000 audi a4 automatic. Sometimes when I drive my car does this sort of like an impact noise when shifting gears. This problem isn't everytime the car shifts and it sometimes happens for few days and then stops for like a month or two. I'm very confused and don't know what to do. Any tips on what could be the problem.
  8. I drive a lexus rx 300 1999 SUV with 160000 miles..when it was purchased there was always a transmission sensor problem but it has driven well until recently. Last December it started to buck while in drive and this week it happened again after driving for 20 minutes. It felt so bad on the car I had it towed to the mechanic. The tow guy put the car in neutral and I picked the car back up the following day. I was told the reverse was gone but I would be able to use other gears. The mechanic also drained fuilds out and refilled. The engine runs good and I checked the transmission fluid level before pulling off. It indicated a pink color and on the cool line. When I pulled off the tires did seem to rub a little. I reached 3 blocks with no bucking before the car just stop moving. None of the gears responded. I remember hearing crackle and loose sounds on and off while driving the 3 blocks. I called for a tow truck and when he tried putting the car in neutral it did not respond. He tried going forward and the car drove backwards as well. He said my transmission locked and it will not be possible to tow. With effort we were able to tow home. Is this common?????? Did my transmission just randomly fail?? What are the indication of a failing transmission ?
  9. Ok so there was a load popping noise and my truck won't go anywhere I put it in neutral and tried to push it and it still won't roll if I start it and let the cluch out I can feel it engage but it won't drive I think the rear end seized or the transfer case how can I find out without opening anything up it does shift though the gears fine It's a 1996 Chevy 1500 4x4 5.7L 5speed manual transmission
  10. My 2008 Mercedes E350 has its drive shaft snap at the universal joint in a small collision, but this is all I thought wrong with it. Then, after further inspection, I saw that there were lines snapped, and possibly a hole in the transmission. I need some help identifying what these lines are, and what the hole is in.
  11. Hello! I own a Nissan Versa, 2012, SV model. 175,000 miles. Heres my issue: when I am driving, it randomly jerks. It feels like it shifts fine, no grinding. There is no specific speed that it does so, it is random. Put cleaner in it, believing it was bad gas. Still it jerked. First mechanic checked the computer. Engine looked fine. He made the engine misfire to ensure the computer read it, it did. It doesn’t seem to be the engine - computer did not read an issue with it. He assumed it was the transmission. So my wife and I thought our car was totaled. Heres where it gets a little weird. As a last ditch effort, I took it to the Nissan dealership for a diagnostic test. They checked the engine and transmission. They said they both look fine. The reason for the jerking? The tail lights. The car had been in a small accident and the tail lights both had cracks in them, causing moisture to build up in the tail light. This, they said, was causing a short and it was setting off a chain reaction which made the car jerk. They said that if the tail lights were replaced, the issue would go away. And finally, here’s my problem: we replaced the tail lights. We lucked out and found the exact match, basically unused at a junkyard down the road. They work perfectly. We cleaned the connectors that attach to the tail lights with electrical spray cleaner. Everything is dry and clean - by the looks of it. Everything looks good. No evidence of burned cables. But, you guessed it, it still jerks. Just as bad if not worse. If the transmission looks good, the engine looks good, and the tail lights were replaced, what could it be? I would greatly appreciate any of your insights and thank you so much for your time! Garrett
  12. Howdy people, I need help trying to figure out what transmissions could potentially fit into my car but I am swapping the engine so I thought about reaching out to find if certain trannies won't fit. I was going to do a k series swap out of a Honda but I don't know if it will fit, any advice? btw its a 2013 chevy Cruze
  13. I recently just bought a Nissan Altima (2008), from a friend. It was super loud and needed brakes repaired but that wasn’t a problem. After the brakes and mufflers (dual) were replaced, I noticed that the car was still very loud in the cabin. I also had to be adjusted to the cars inability to shift gears. It often “stalls” or just won’t accelerate when I make turns, but will jolt a few seconds later to a proper speed. Now the car does get to any speed I need, but not without a loud humming noise and my rpms are consistently at 5k close to 6 even, just going no more than 45 mph. I asked my mechanic about it and he said nothing was wrong with the transmission, so I tried seeking other possibilities. I was told by fellow car “experts” that it could be a dirty fuel injector, but again my mechanic said it doesn’t need any cleaning, “it’s finnneee”. Is he lying to me? If so why? He says the car is absolutely fine but it’s very frusterating to be beeped at by people thinking that I’m just purposefully driving 20 mph under the speed limit and then getting nearly whiplashed to 50 mph a few seconds later. I’ve looked up everything and can’t find an answer, please help!
  14. Hello: I am new to this site and would like to hear what people have to say about the problems I have been having with my 2006 Ford Five Hundred (approx. 138,000 miles). I do not know much about cars, but here it goes. My first experience with the issue was on a 4 hour drive (all interstate). We had been driving for 3.5 hours when suddenly the car would not accelerate properly. When I pressed the gas pedal down, the RPMs would get abnormally high then go normal then back to high. I kept driving and about 20 minutes later the same thing happened. However, this time it failed to accelerate at all. We pulled over to the shoulder where it proceeded to die. I shut it off, took the keys out for a minute or two, then started it up with no problems. At this point I knew something was wrong. I was so close to my destination I figured I could kind of nurse it to the finish line. A couple miles later the RPMs jumped around as before. I did not want to take any chances; I pulled over and got it towed. The following day I took it in to a Ford dealer to get it looked at. They said I was missing the transmission dipstick. They replaced the dipstick and the tube that it sets in. They said the absence of the dipstick was probably allowing transmission fluid to burp up out of the tube. They topped my fluids off and said I was good to go. I made another 3.5 hour trip without any problems. Leaving for another 3 hour trip, I experienced the same issues as I did on the 4 hour trip (surging, loss of power, trouble accelerating) on three separate time throughout the trip; I followed the same regiment of turning the car off, taking the keys out, and starting it back up. Each event occurred while I was driving in and out of hills on the interstate at speeds above 60 mph. These issues seem to me, with my novice experience to cars, that there is an issue with the transmission. However, with the problems only occurring on hills, it makes me think that the fuel pump is going bad as it is not able to pump the unlevel amount of gas in the tank. I am not even sure if that makes sense. I may be unrelated, but I do hear some whining when the car is being driven. So, all that being said, do you guys have an insight to this type of problem? Have any of you experienced these same issues? Do you have a suggestions on what my next course of action should be? Is it the transmission? fuel pump? or something else? Please let me know what you think. Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance, -Lee V.
  15. Ok someone I really need help. My 99 Prelude is leaking out this reddish fluid. I put some paper under the car and found it dripping and theres some leaking out the very front of my hood too more to the right side of the front. Is my transmission going up? I drove my car all day today and it ran fine... Clutch seemed good, gave me a lot of boost with gear switching... Just noticed it was leaking when I got home. Someone please help I really don't wanna lose this beautiful classic car.
  16. Hi, My 2005 Nissan Maxima needs a new transmission. It's still running but with lots of problems. I was wondering what the cheapest and best way to go about replacing the transmission would be. I would like to get a brand new one-should I try to buy it myself and take it to a mechanic or just have the mechanic take care of everything? -I don't know anything about cars -I'm a student on a budget -I don't want to buy a new car Thanks!!
  17. Looking for a mechanic you can trust? Look no further! We’re the most friendly, honest auto repair team in the area. http://troyautomotiveshop.com/ We offer many preventative maintenance options. It's the convenient way to keep your car healthy and in top condition. Troy automotive provides tow trucks and towing services in the Dallas & Fort Worth area. We utilize both Flatbed and Wheel Lift Towing for the most appropriate and safest car towing for every need. We provide a secure auto storage facility with alarm systems and camera system to protect vehicles that we tow and or store for our clients. Troy Automotive (214) 468-4285 8119 Bearden ln Dallas Texas 75227 Troyautomotiveshop.com
  18. My 1999 Saturn SC2 won't shift in drive. If I put in 3 it shifts and when I get going faster I can put in D. Once it gets warm it shifts in D. Any0ne have an idea what causes this and how to fix it?
  19. So on my way to work this mornin (luckily only a few miles from the house) and my truck just revs up to like 4000/5000 rpms and makes this rattling can noise and it won't shift into 2nd... I think its the transmission shift sensor/solenoid, but I'm not positive. I just put $500 into it "fixin it" which obviously I'm cursed because now this is out. Does anybody know the specific name of what I need bc advanced has the parts but 10 different names and range from $15 to $175. If you know, let me in on it! *thanks *
  20. Okay, so I have a 2004 Toyota Avalon that I bought used from the dealer in '07. In '09, the transmission needed to be replaced and it was still under warranty so they put in a brand new one. Around 3 years later, the transmission started falling apart again and was unfortunately not still under warranty. So I went to a friend's "guy" to get it rebuilt who (of course) did a less than excellent job because here I am just over a year later and in need of another replacement and/or rebuild and I'm wondering if it's worth it to just buy a new car? I JUST finished paying the car off, so I was really looking forward to not having a payment and I'm trying to weigh my options here: do I pay a lump sum to have the transmission replaced/rebuilt for the third time, or do I suck it up and get a new car? Any advice would be appreciated.
  21. I didn't see this leak until this morning when I came back to work. My car was parked in this spot all day yesterday while at work. I pulled up and saw it and I figure it came from my car as I doubt anyone else parked there. I work as a nanny so I work in someone's home, leaving my car parked in a driveway. The family I work for keep their cars parked in the garage. As you can see from the pics, it is on the left passenger side and more towards the middle of the car. The color is hard to tell in the pics but from outside, it looks brown. I don't know if this could just be because it has been sitting there for a long while or not, though. I'd hope that if the family I work for noticed a red leak (like transmission fluid) in their driveway after I had left, that they would say something about it. But maybe not. I always thought transmission fluid doesn't soak in to pavement like that, as whatever this is, seems to have done. It isn't from my AC. I use my AC very minimally and I get here very early in the morning, 6AM, so I wouldn't even need it in the first place. Plus, I prefer having my windows down. I've been having a few symptoms which I've been unable to explain or figure out. My car hesitates while driving. It does not hesitate while accelerating or decelerating. Only when driving at high speeds. It seems to do it worse the longer I drive it, and sometimes (it's not always the case) after the engine warms up. Sometimes, it doesn't do it at all. I can't figure out when and why it happens. I just know that it does. I also need new tires badly, so I don't know if this could have an affect on the hesitation feeling or not. I say feeling, because it is hard to explain. It really feels kinda like a hiccup, more so than a "hesitation." I have a 2000 Dodge Neon. I have replaced a few minor things over the last two weeks. I had head gasket valves replaced. PCV pipe and valve replaced. Gas hose replaced. And the lower radiator hose replaced. My dad did all of this for me. And he also did a coolant flush when he replaced the radiator hose. I had it inspected two weeks ago when I went and got an oil change.. but I took it to Firestone, and they didn't do a very good inspection at all. I'm planning on taking it by a local transmission place ASAP, but it's hard to manage a time slot because I work full time and this place is only open on weekdays!! Grr! If it's a transmission leak, how much might it cost to fix this? I actually just bought this car almost three weeks ago from a dealer for pretty cheap ($1500). But it took me a long time to save just that small amount, because I've had school loans/bills to pay off (and still do.) I just need a car to get me to work and back. I won't use it for anything else. I drive about 20 miles a day and that is it. But it is going to really suck if this is a huge, costly fix. I'm not even sure it'd be worth it at this point as I believe the car is on it's last leg anyways, and will probably only last me a year or two.. which is really all the time I needed it for anyways. It's got 148,098 miles on it right now. Any assistance or expertise would be helpful. I know it's hard to diagnose without looking at the car yourself, but suggestions would be great. Thanks.
  22. Hey guys, I'm new here. This is my first post and I really need some help. My fiancee's car has been acting strange the past few days. She has a 2004 Kia Rio. Whenever the RPM's are around 1000 the car seems to go into some sort of overdrive or something. I'm not entirely sure how to describe it, its like the engine is straining whenever her foot is not on the accelerator. Prior to the start of this, it used to make a low hum but now its a very loud hum and practically shakes the car. My VERY limited experience with cars leads me to believe it has something to do with transmission but I really am not entirely sure. We are going to be taking it in as soon as possible but considering we need to finish paying for our wedding I'm just trying to potentially have an idea of what to expect when we bring it in as well as possibly what it should cost. I'm really not that great at cars, I can change oil, headlights/bulbs, and do some electrical work but other then that I really don't know much and it seems that everytime I go into a shop I get told by someone after the fact that I got ripped off or the shop replaced way more than they needed. So any help would be appreciated. Thanks again guys!
  23. Hello CarForums users! I have a 51plate citreon saxo diesel. It recently broke down and had to be recovered by the RAC. I had been driving down the motorway and my steering became wobbly. I pulled over where I could, but couldn't see any immediate problem. I proceeded to carefully drive the car home. I decided to pop to the shop on the way home. As I was turning out of the car park and onto a small traffic island there was a horrific grinding noise from my front nearside wheel. When I tried to pull off the car went nowhere. I noiced that if I lifted the clutch while in gear the speedometer would go up as if I was moving, even though I wasnt. I called the RAC and the nice chap towed me home and told me that my transmission had gone, and that I need a new cv joint. My question is, do I need a cv joint with the whole transmission rod attached or will just the cv joint do? I can get a cv joint for about £40 or the whole thing for £70. I obviously would like to avoid spending money that I don't have to, so any advice would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks. Lee
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