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I inherited a 2007 Mazda CX-7 from my family in good condition. About a week ago due to low tire pressure, I lost control of the car on the LIE taking a turn and ended up rolling over a bumpy highway divider, spinning the car, and blew out both of my back tires. I rode the car on the flat tires about 1500-2000 feet to the highway exit where there was luckily a Mavis discount tire, and they replaced both the tires. Everything seems to work perfectly, except for a loud creaking/clicking noise coming from the rear left tire about once per rotation. It seems to be mostly when the car turns to the right. I don’t know much about cars, but I don’t think its a CV joint since its a FWD car and correct me if I’m wrong but aren’t these only in the front? What else could this clicking noise be? Could the wheel be damaged, or could it be the rotor/brakes?
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Hi everyone! I am conducting a survey for school about which attributes customers value the most when buying tires. I would really appreciate all answers regarding the picture above! It would also be a great help if you told why you chose a certain option. Thank you for your help!
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- tires
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Typically, OEM tires on a new vehicle last for around 50,000 miles before replacement. Several factors affect the useful life of a set of tires. People must take good care of tires to ensure proper functionality and safety. The type of tire pleases a significant rule in its usability. Softer tires provide better road grip but wear out quickly. On the other hand, performance-oriented tires wear out much sooner compared to the standard all-season alternatives.
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Car tires are subjected to some of the harshest environments than any other type of consumer product. Moreover, it is stretched and ruled millions of miles during its life and is exposed to the environment’s harmful elements. Tires are subjected to the winter’s cold and the summer’s heat, leading to the rubber compound’s continuous expansion and contraction. Modern tires come with anti-aging chemicals, but exposure to full elements results in loss of elasticity leading to cracks on the tire surface.
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Every tire’s usable life differs based on its design and other wear and tear factors. But manufacturers and servicing agencies recommend replacing after a specific mileage to avoid accidents. All manufacturers provide warranty and guidelines for proper usage and maintenance of tires. Replacing tires irrespective of the tread depth after every 5 to 6 years is always considered a healthy practice.
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Modern-day tires use multiple layers of polyester bands, rubber, and steel bands. As the tires start to age, these layers begin to damage and lose their ability to grip the road. Multiple noticeable symptoms tell where it is not in good shape. Some common indications include lack of traction on wet surfaces, noise, vibration, excessive wobbling, etc. Sometimes when the tread of the tire develops defects that cannot be balanced, it results in separation of the polyester band from the Steel bands inside the tire. For any enquiry :-https://www.orienttech.com.qa/our-services/
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The most straightforward approach to help guarantee agreeable mileage and execution from your tyres is to give them basic, month to month examinations for appropriate swelling, even track wear, and harm. Following are some tips by GT Auto center to keep your tires on the track. Keep Up Appropriate Expansion Weight in Your Tyres Legitimate swelling weight is fundamental in giving you the best tire execution, wellbeing, and mileage. Keep in mind to as often as possible in any event once every month by any auto repair shop in Dubai. Check your tyres (when they are cool) with a precise tire weight gauge. Keep up expansion weight at the suggested dimension The suggested dimension can be found on the vehicle notice or in your vehicle's proprietor's manual. Keeping up appropriate swelling weight is the absolute most significant thing you can do to enable your tyres to last more and remain tough. Under swelling is the main source of irreparable tire harm and may result in serious splitting and ensuing air misfortune. It lessens load limit, permits over the top sidewall flexing, and expands moving obstruction, bringing about warmth and mechanical harm. Over swelling expands firmness that may cause an awkward driving background and create undesirable vehicle vibration. It likewise expands the odds of effect of harm. Try not to turn your tyres exorbitantly Maintain a strategic distance from over the top tire turning when your vehicle is stuck in snow, ice, mud or sand. This may cause tyre over-warming and irreparable harm. Utilize a delicate in reverse and forward shaking movement to free your vehicle. Never remain close or behind a tire turning at high speeds, for instance, while endeavoring to push a vehicle that is stuck or when an on-vehicle turn parity machine is being used. Check your tyres for wear Continuously expel tyres from the administration when they achieve 1.6mm staying in track profundity. Every single new tyre has track wear pointers that show up as smooth banks in the track grooves when they wear to 1.6mm dimension. Wet climate mishaps may happen from sliding on uncovered or about bare tyres. Unnecessarily worn tires are additionally bound to endure punctures. Check your tyres for harm Visit auto repair shop in Dubai for the examination of your tyres for indications of harm and their general condition is significant for security. In the event that you have any inquiries, have your tyre vendor examine them. Effects, entrances, breaks, bunches, lumps, or air misfortune dependably require tyre evacuation and master examination. Tyre weight observing framework alert Allude to your vehicle Owner's Manual for more data on what to do if the tyre weight cautioning framework actuates. You can also check tyre change service in Dubai if you can’t handle what’s going on. Try not to endeavor to mount your very own tyres Genuine damage may result from the blast of tyre/edge get together from inappropriate mounting systems. GT Auto center suggests to make sure to adhere to your tyre producer's directions and match tyre width to edge measurement. Just uncommonly prepared people should mount tyres.
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Hello. My front left tire has been leaking for over a year now despite having new tires. I've had bead seals done, a new valve stem put in, rims sanded down and the tires put through the both water tests (spraying and in the water tank) to check but they're not leaking. Yet I'm still losing PSI quickly and have to refill the tire every week or two. 2009 Honda Civic Sedan. I'm out of ideas and my mechanics are stumped. Please help!
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Get the best deal for different brands of Car tyres at Dubai, Al Ain and Abu Dhabi. Best offers and sales on car tyres and car services. Visit Zdegree official Website
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Hi guys, So I'm normally a safe and sensible driver but today I found myself in a tricky spot 😂 I was coming round a hairpin bend on a VERY steep hill (25-30 degrees perhaps) and I had to stop as the road narrowed and a car came the other way. I tried to go up the hill after that passed but I had 4 passengers and loud music (couldn't hear the tires) and my tires just spun (on dry tarmac) for about 5 seconds and was enough to generate a fairly significant amount of smoke at 3k RPM at which point I cut the throttle and went back down the hill in reverse. I pulled over straight after and the tread depth seemed very slightly less and the tires were very warm but no tears or anything. How much will I have shortened their life by?
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So I recently got a 97 Z28 camaro for my birthday. And whenever you hard press on the accelerator it makes a loud knock sound and it feels like something Is trying to kick up from under the car. It is by the back right tire. And sometimes I hear rattling sounds from the same location too. Anyone know what's wrong? Thanks!
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My dad and I are going to go down to Missouri to pick up a 1978 Chevrolet Malibu. We had some ideas for it like making a car that was fast on the street and fast on dirt. We like the idea of some wide tires on the front and rear. We are likely going to drop a 4 speed manual transmission and a 350 small block in it. I want to know if dirt track tires are street legal, what kinds are recommended for cheap, and if they’ll last long being that they’re made for dirt and not asphalt. It’s just a little project, and some ideas right now.
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So I have a stock 2000 Dodge Neon that I'm lifting with custom made spacers, just looking for a little extra clearance. I want to get some bigger off-road/all-terrain tires that I can fit on the stock steel rims. My current tires are 185/70R14, the lug pattern is 5x100. I'm unsure of the rims specific measurements though. I've been all over the web but I can't figure out what the most cost-effective way of doing this is. It's a beater that I'm taking to the Gambler 500 so I don't want to go out and buy brand new rims and tires... Should I just buy an old rim and tire set off someone and try to find a lug adapter? Can I find all-terrain tires to fit my stock steel rims? I understand I'll have to cut up the body to fit them but I'm not worried about that.
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I have a 2014 Volkswagen Jetta 1.8T SE, and I want to buy new rims and some coilovers for it. Do I need to get different sized rims or can they be the same size as they are now? If they can be the same size they are now, I don't know what size my rims are now. What size should I get? Should i get the coilovers or the rims first? How big should they be?
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the tires have air pressure in them. I purchased a 2010 Acura TSX and the first thing I noticed is both the TMPS warning display and low pressure signal (!) come on every time starting the vehicle. This Acura also has aftermarket rims on it, and 18" instead of the factory 17". I told the dealer about this concern, but he told me the aftermarket rims are what's causing the warning lights to activate. He said the sensor is synchronized with the original factory rims/tire size, thus the aftermarket rims "confuse" the sensor into thinking there is low tire pressure, even though there's not. I find this a bit hard to believe; not many would replace their rims if it meant dealing with a permanent warning light for the duration of that car's life. Is there a way to reset the sensor?
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Does anybody own a 2015 Chevy Malibu LS. I have so much trouble with the airdam scraping the ground on the slightest speed bump or driveway entrance. The LT and the LTZ have no problems at all the all have better clearance due to bigger tires. I called Chevy and they sentt me back to the dealer. The dealer does'nt want to do anything about it. If you buy a Malibu. Do yourself a favor and go for the LTZ instead of the LS. The tires are too small and you will be out of luck with the car scraping all the time.
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Hey guys, I new to this so sorry if I'm doing something wrong. But anyway, I am getting a 2008 Kia sportage and I was wondering how much a 3in body lift would be, what size tires would be best for it, and it's a 4cyl which most of you know make the pickup really slow so is there anyway i could speed it up but like in a cheaper way? Thanks!
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New Images have been released for Michelin’s new all-season tire, the Pilot Sport A/S 3 "The best balance of wet and dry performance we've ever experienced in testing" - Car & Driver You can find out which tire best suits your specific vehicle here. http://uhptires.ca
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I NEED HELP FAST, PLEASE GIVE ME YOUR IMPUT Okay so I've had this problem for about 2 weeks or so, I own a 2006 Lincoln zephyr, it is a v6, 3.0L, with FWD. After switching the back breaks on my car(new pads, new rotors), i bought 2 used tires, during the install the guy toldme I have abent rim and he will put it in the back so my wheel doesn't shake, after I left the shop I noticed intense vibration on the driver side plus a loud noise as if the tire was loose hitting something and rubbing agains something, went back got it put in the back. I still hear the sound just quiet and in the back, car still vibrates. The car vibrates a little(feeling it when I put my feet on the ground not the pedals) at all time, vibration is sort of under the seat and by the pedals. The car jerks/bumps at really slow speeds (0-15mph) and when I break, but only when I slow down or lightly press the break pedal. When pressed hard it doesn't do that. Every time I start my car it's not that bad but then it gets worst. I know I need my breaks bleeded but could that be the problem?? Or what can it be? This has probably nothing to do with it, but I did get subs put in the car recently, and I have noticed a clicking sound comin from the engine. Sounds like maybe one of the valves.
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