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Found 7 results

  1. Hi! My girlfriend have a hyundai tucson 2007 that now have an occasional brake problem.. Sometimes the warning lights for brake and battery lights up. When this happens the power brakes disappear and are gone as long as the warning lights are on. She are able to extinguish the warning lights by turning the car off then on again. The brakes works good otherwise, no strange sounds, good pads, no vibrations and such.. it’s just when the warning lights turns on that the power brakes disappear. I have checked all brakes but can’t see any obvious problem there. I figured that if the belt are slipping it would be a bit more frequent problem. An other thing we noticed is that when the warning lights are lit, the power disappears to window heating buttons for front and rear windshield. Don’t know how that could be connected but when when the warning lights disappear and brakes start working, so do window heating. Used an OBDII but it did not reveal any fault codes. Anyone who recognize the problem or have a possible solution?
  2. so to get up to speed, i have a 2000 ford ranger xlt. recently i bought a 21.5 inch LED bar and a wiring harness to accommodate it. the wiring harness has a little slot for a fuse to be inserted, and a switch that leads into the cab as well as a relay and power plug for light bar, the whole shibang. the LED bar is not connected to any other wires on the truck. here's where i think i messed up, and i need someone to either confirm it, or deny it and please explain. the LED bar calls for a 30 amp fuse to be used on it. the wiring harness on the other hand supports up to 40 amps. I went out and bought a 40 amp fuse and plugged it into the LED bar circuit. i went to turn it on and the LED bar did nothing. after messing around and wondering why, it hit me, and i realized i may have overloaded the LED bar and effectively killed it by using a 40 amp fuse rather than a 30. am i about right, or is there a problem in my thinking?
  3. Please help me diagnose. I ran this 8th gen civic si k20z3 mistakenly with little to no oil in it, no engine light or codes popped up. The oil level showed at the tip end of dipstick but barely. I drove it hard and hit vtec everyday for 2 weeks before i checked my oil again. But now its making this sound after a long ride. No power loss in the high end RPMs, little power loss low end What do you think it is? Timing chain/Vtc, crank shaft bearing, bent valves? You can hear the video: https://youtu.be/HV7Dg-t4WAI
  4. I won a 2002 pt cruiser a year ago in a school raffle. Me and my family have never owned any cars before, so we have absolutely no car knowledge. I only started driving it recently and noticed that the coolant tank was dirty with dark brown, mud-like stuff. A friend helped me take out the coolant tank and rinse it, but we did not do a full radiator flush. The car had a red coolant originally, but I do not know if it was the HOAT recommended by Chrysler. I bought a Phosphated HOAT coolant, but it is blue. We added it to the car, again, without doing a flush first. Will the car be okay? Does color matter as long as they are both HOAT? Is Phosphated HOAT coolant different from non-phosphated?
  5. So I have been having an interesting issue with my car for a while now. My 2006 tC's starting is not consistent. It will start slowly whenever it's hot outside or it may have been sitting there for a while. I have changed the alternator, starter, battery, and fuel pump. As of right now, it starts slowly but the clicking during ignition is consistent and of the same volume. When the engine finally turns over, it turns over quickly and without hiccups. The alternator charges the battery without any problems. At this point, the only suggestions left from some of the people I know is changing the fuel pressure regulator. My mechanic friend's reasoning is that if the ignition clicking is consistent, there is no problem with the parts mentioned. The pressure regulator is not regulating pressure effectively anymore so the pump has to run longer before the fuel line pressure is where it needs to be for the proper turn over. I have run parasitic draw tests on the battery and only get about 250 mA readings. I don't really know what else to do besides taking into a shop to have them fix this for me but I would rather do it myself and know it was done correctly. Any ideas?
  6. I just got a 2014 Volkswagen Jetta 1.8T SE, and so far I've had no problems with the car itself. When I have the radio playing, there isn't any problems with it, but when I have my phone plugged into the aux cord, the bass sounds really bad. I've tried everything to get this to go away. It sounds really scratchy and if I have the volume turned up loud, it sounds worse. I've tried turning the bass down on my car and it doesnt change anything. This is only when I have my phone plugged into the aux cord. Can someone tell me what's wrong with it?
  7. Okay to start off with I drive a 2003 Saab 9-3. also it is an automatic trans. The problem I am experiencing is that every so once in a while when I am accelerating, or just cruising, my car will rev (the RPMs) go up and I lose speed, then I about 3 sec. it will make a small jerk and the RPMs and speed will go back to the way I was driving before. The best way that I can explain the feeling is (when you are in manual shift and you are at a constant speed in 3rd gear, and you move to second gear without decelerating. and there is the high engine rev noise) Please help me troubleshoot my problem.. thanks!
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