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Found 7 results

  1. I 2nd the post earlier today on Nano Pro MT Products and Highly Recommend ! Their entire line is the Internet's Best Kept Automotive Secret. They used to be in Auto Zone however, now their products are available exclusively through their EBAY Store ( https://www.ebay.com/usr/nanopromt)! I purchased their Scheduled Maintenance 2-Pack of Coolant Additive (Nano Cool) and Oil Stabilizer for $34.98 and it was the best $35 bucks I ever spent! (https://www.ebay.com/itm/100-Authentic-Nano-Pro-MT-Oil-Stabilizer-Nano-Cool-Combo-Pack-Brand-New-2020/164031942138?hash=item263110cdfa:g:hRMAAOSwc7teHlYP) I've got to tell you, I'm thrilled about this Nano Pro MT Oil Additive. The very 1st thing I noticed was my truck had a ticking noise when it was accelerating or idling. That noise is gone! I ran it about 15 miles to work it through and I don't hear any trace of that noise anymore. Color me impressed! I have tried a few times to find anything that does what it claims to. You cant imagine how important my truck is to me. It's the thing that gets me from job to job. I swear it's the smoothest my vehicle has been in a very long time. FORD F-150 (153,738 Miles). Below is my current mileage and the Nano products I used! Do yourself a favor especially if you have a High Mileage vehicle and pick up a few bottles of this stuff! You won't be sorry!
  2. Hello, I am posting this question on behalf of my mother, regarding a 1994 Mazda Miata that she only drives once a week for short errands. The neighbor advised that she idle/run the engine for ten to fifteen minutes every few days to improve the health of the car. Lately she noticed the hood getting very hot during these sessions. The summer heat contributes but she thinks it is still too hot. The meter in the dashboard that gives a hot/cool reading points to just below halfway, after the engine has been idling for a while. When she drives a few minutes down the road for weekly errands the meter's dial will point to just below halfway between hot and cool, also. Is this normal? She will need to drive a half-hour trip soon and I want to be sure the car is fit to drive that far. Any help is appreciated!
  3. Hi all, I have an 2005 Mk2 Focus 1.6 petrol Ti-VCT which has the electronically controlled thermostat. I am struggling with overheating issues, I wonder if anyone has any good tips After seeing the typical symptoms (pressure cap opens after it can't take it anymore and coolant is released through the cap the rest boils) I have found that the thermostat does not open. There is no or barely any circulation through the radiator. The dashboard gauge inside raises to 75°C normally, but stays there even if temperatures are way above 100°C Just to cross out other possibilities: - Using a garden hose I flushed all lines through the engine, the hoses, the radiator, there is no blockage in the system - the water pump is in good condition and creates the require head pressure - de-airing valve seem to be working fine - thermostat has been replaced, same symptoms with the new one - coolant thermal sensor (on the other side of the engine) replaced, same symptoms with the new one - cylinder head is sound, not cracked (checked by mechanic + coolant is clear) - Expansion tank cap replaced So all I have left to assume is that the thermostat doesn't get the electronic control signal to open. This type of thermostat doesn't open just by itself if dipped in boiling water(tested). I followed the wires from the thermostat housing to the central box where a bunch of wires go and found no physical injury. I checked all the fuses (both fuse boxes) which I imagined might have a role in temperature or engine control, all sound. Is there anything I can do to find out more? Is there any way to fix this if the fault is in the central electronics? If everything else fails, does anyone have experience with using a conventional thermostat instead? It looks like the housing matches, anyone knows if it really does? Can it cause a problem in engine control if thermostat wires are not connected (as there is nowhere to connect them)? Temperatures is still a problem, the best conventional thermostat I could find opens at 92 °C while the original opens at 98 °C. It still might be okay I guess, if 92 is measured before the engine and 98 is originally measured after the engine at the thermal sensor, then close enough I assume. Any comments, tips appreciated!
  4. I have a 2000 4Runner 4 cylinder, I changed the thermostat, radiator cap, and put in new coolant. After all that stuff it still keeps getting hot. What should my next steps be in trying to fix it?
  5. I have a 2004 Honda Civic EX. Just purchased it at the end of March and it has been nothing but trouble since then. It started overheating back in May, when I was 3 hours from home. I attempted to limp it home, but it just wouldn't stay cool enough to drive. I got a tow back home and replaced the thermostat. It fixed the issue for a few weeks, until it started overheating again. At this point, I checked the texture and color of the oil to see if it may be a head gasket, I checked all of my radiator hoses to ensure there were no cracks or leaks, and I removed the radiator cap and let the car get to operating temperature to see if my coolant was circulating through my radiator. Everything checked out okay. I purchased a new radiator cap in hopes that a cheap part may fix the issue. I noticed I was having to put coolant in it more often than I should have been, so I stuck a piece of cardboard under the car after it was overheating to see if I could pin point a leak. Woke up the next morning to check, and the box was completely dry. After this, I finally broke down and took it to the shop. The service advisor had informed me that there was a small pin hole in the radiator, causing me to lose coolant. I thought this was odd, as I hadn't seen any coolant on the motor or ground confirming that it was leaking. They told me they also replaced the coolant reservoir. I shrugged off my confusion and took the car with me. Later that evening, I was on my way out of town and the car began overheating yet again (this time it was because they "forgot" to put a clamp on the radiator bypass, causing my coolant to spray all over my motor). I stopped 8 times on my way home to let the car cool off. Put a clamp on the hose and figured maybe this would be the last of my overheating issues. Wrong. Since I got it back a couple weeks ago, it has overheated 3 more times, and when it's overheating, I turn on my heat to cool the engine off. When I come to a stop light or stop sign, however, I loose all heat inside the car completely and it just blows out cold air. Generally if it's a heater core, I would have a leak inside the car (from what I've been told), and the car won't overheat. The overheating is intermittent, which leans me away from it being a water pump issue (if the water pump was going bad, it would constantly be overheating). I don't think it's a head gasket either, as the car has been running just fine and I haven't noticed any discolored smoke coming from the exhaust. I thought maybe some air pockets in my system, but I would have thought the dealership would have flushed the system when they replaced the radiator. I don't know a lot about cars, but this problem literally has me stumped. The car is currently in the shop again now, and they called this morning saying they let it run for 2 hours and drove it about 45 minutes away yesterday and couldn't get it to overheat. If anyone has any suggestions, please let me know. This is driving me crazy. Thanks.
  6. My 2001 Jetta has experienced intermittent issues with antifreeze exhaustion and overheating. Found that only one of the two radiator fans is coming on. There are no obvious leaks/defects in any hoses, though stop-leak solution has been used in the past with some success in this car. Should both radiator fans be turning on and working concurrently? What should I do about the non-working fan?
  7. I'll do my best to list out all the symptoms and conditions of whats going on. I'm missing something here, and would appreciate any input. This happened last summer, where the car overheats after driving for approx. 20-30 mins in hot weather...sooner if the AC was on, sooner if the car idled. Blasting the heat DOES bring down the temperature to normal. Eventually the car totally crapped out and would not drive more than 5-10 minutes before overheating. Took it into the shop and had a new radiator/hoses/etc. replaced, the problem immediately stopped. However, the weather has begun getting hot again, and the problem seems to be back. The first time I noticed it, I checked fluid levels, and coolant res. was completely dry. Oil didn't appear to be milky or foamy, and no puddles of fluid beneath the car at all. I topped off the coolant res. with new fluid, and went about my way. The next day, it overheated at about the same point in my daily drive....turning heat on brought it back down to normal temp. Checked coolant res. afterwards and its still totally full. So what am I missing? The cap/radiator/thermostat/hoses are all under a year old, coolant in the tank, and the temperature is definitely positively effected by running the heat. I could just blast the heater all summer, but that just doesn't sound pleasant at all Thanks!
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