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Found 10 results

  1. I have a 2005 chevy malibu i recently purchased from a private dealer, and I do not have an entry key to my car. Somehow, the entry key is different from the ignition key (assuming the car was once stolen or in an accident). He told me all I had to do was go up to chevy, give them my VIN number and they would give me a new one for a small fee. Well today I called up to chevy (gm) and they quoted me a price between $500 to $600!!!!!!! I can't afford that right now and I hate to leave my car parked with the doors unlocked. Please tell me there is a way around this expense!?
  2. So ive been having this problem with my 98' Buick century for the past 2-3 weeks now, it seems a little difficult to describe, but im going to try my best to describe it. So what it seems like is happening is after about 2-3 mins of driving, when the engine starts to warm up, the performance seems to deteriorate. Whenever I try to accelerate, it feels like its not putting out any power even though the revs are increasing. It sounds like it revs out 1st gear, but im only going like 10-15 mph, where i should be going almost double that, and then when it shifts into 2nd, its a little abrupt, and jolts the car a little, then the revs drop really low, almost sounds lower than idle, then i'm barley gaining any speed, it takes about 15-25 seconds for me to get from about 25mph up to 40 mph, then about then it shifts into 3rd, which is more rough than 2nd, then after that, it seems mostly fine, unless if i try to accelerate above 50 mph, then a lot of the time it dosent downshift like it used to, and i cant do much for overtaking, or anything of that sort. When accelerating at anytime, i cant feel to much of like any small jolts or anyhting like that, where it would seem like something is slipping, if anything is slipping, i dont feel it. What i explained is for most of the time while driving it. There are a few occasions where the car will be up to normal operating temp, and it will drive normally for about 10secs, then it goes back to what it has been doing. I hope i explained my problem enough where someone has had the same problem, or anyone knows what is going on. Hopefully whatever the problem is, it can be cheap, because this car has been faithful to me, and would love to keep driving this car for another year or two. Thanks, Kaden
  3. ls/lt/hemi/coyote engine cart/stand Design Features: -Heavy Duty Urethane 4″ diameter swivel casters so they move extremely easy (unlike the import stands) -1/4″ thick top plates and 2″ sq. 11ga. structural tube bases -Professionally mig welded construction -For use with manifolds or without -For use with manual or automatic transmission -Compact design for storage of engines, cart does not exceed the physical size of the engine itself -Powder Coated finish for durability and good looks, COLOR: SILVER VEIN -We use these for engine storage, assembly, mock-up, engine and transmission installs, motor plate fabrication,oil pan inspection and swap, etc. -Designed and fabricated in our shop in the USA NOTE: Will not fit with the C5 batwing oil pan Fitment: LS 4.8, 5.3, 5.7, 6.0, 6.2, LS1, LS2, LS3, LS6, LS7, LS9, LT1, LT4, L33, L83, L86, LQ4, LQ9, LSX376, LSX427, LSX454, C5 C6 C7 CORVETTE, CAMARO SS, GTO, G8 GT, ETC. Fitment: DODGE CHRYSLER HEMI ENGINES, V8 5.7, 6.1, 6.2, 6.4 motors. Challenger, Hellcat, Scat Pack, Charger, Super Bee, Demon, etc. NOTES: -Not all of the motor mounts bolt holes on the block will be used depending on which engine you are using. -Will not fit the earlier 1st gen 392 & 426 Hemi engines Where to buy?!?! (Link below) https://motorheadtechniques.com/2018/08/14/engine-stand-cart-cradle-fits-both-the-ls-gen-5-lt-with-trans-4-casters/
  4. ls/lt/hemi/coyote engine cart/stand Design Features: -Heavy Duty Urethane 4″ diameter swivel casters so they move extremely easy (unlike the import stands) -1/4″ thick top plates and 2″ sq. 11ga. structural tube bases -Professionally mig welded construction -For use with manifolds or without -For use with manual or automatic transmission -Compact design for storage of engines, cart does not exceed the physical size of the engine itself -Powder Coated finish for durability and good looks, COLOR: SILVER VEIN -We use these for engine storage, assembly, mock-up, engine and transmission installs, motor plate fabrication,oil pan inspection and swap, etc. -Designed and fabricated in our shop in the USA NOTE: Will not fit with the C5 batwing oil pan Fitment: LS 4.8, 5.3, 5.7, 6.0, 6.2, LS1, LS2, LS3, LS6, LS7, LS9, LT1, LT4, L33, L83, L86, LQ4, LQ9, LSX376, LSX427, LSX454, C5 C6 C7 CORVETTE, CAMARO SS, GTO, G8 GT, ETC. Fitment: DODGE CHRYSLER HEMI ENGINES, V8 5.7, 6.1, 6.2, 6.4 motors. Challenger, Hellcat, Scat Pack, Charger, Super Bee, Demon, etc. NOTES: -Not all of the motor mounts bolt holes on the block will be used depending on which engine you are using. -Will not fit the earlier 1st gen 392 & 426 Hemi engines Where to buy?!?! (Link below) https://motorheadtechniques.com/2018/08/14/engine-stand-cart-cradle-fits-both-the-ls-gen-5-lt-with-trans-4-casters/
  5. ls/lt/hemi/coyote engine cart/stand Design Features: -Heavy Duty Urethane 4″ diameter swivel casters so they move extremely easy (unlike the import stands) -1/4″ thick top plates and 2″ sq. 11ga. structural tube bases -Professionally mig welded construction -For use with manifolds or without -For use with manual or automatic transmission -Compact design for storage of engines, cart does not exceed the physical size of the engine itself -Powder Coated finish for durability and good looks, COLOR: SILVER VEIN -We use these for engine storage, assembly, mock-up, engine and transmission installs, motor plate fabrication,oil pan inspection and swap, etc. -Designed and fabricated in our shop in the USA NOTE: Will not fit with the C5 batwing oil pan Fitment: LS 4.8, 5.3, 5.7, 6.0, 6.2, LS1, LS2, LS3, LS6, LS7, LS9, LT1, LT4, L33, L83, L86, LQ4, LQ9, LSX376, LSX427, LSX454, C5 C6 C7 CORVETTE, CAMARO SS, GTO, G8 GT, ETC. Fitment: DODGE CHRYSLER HEMI ENGINES, V8 5.7, 6.1, 6.2, 6.4 motors. Challenger, Hellcat, Scat Pack, Charger, Super Bee, Demon, etc. NOTES: -Not all of the motor mounts bolt holes on the block will be used depending on which engine you are using. -Will not fit the earlier 1st gen 392 & 426 Hemi engines Where to buy?!?! (Link below) https://motorheadtechniques.com/2018/08/14/engine-stand-cart-cradle-fits-both-the-ls-gen-5-lt-with-trans-4-casters/
  6. GM is expected to close its assembly plant in Oshawa, Canada, on November 26, local time, according to the Global Post. Uniford, a local trade union, said on November 25 that no products would be distributed to Osawa assembly plant for production by December 2019. Unifor stands for about 2,500 workers. Unifor said in a statement: "The Union has received a general notification today that the company will announce important things tomorrow and will have an impact on global production. In contract negotiations with Uniford in 2016, GM promised to invest $400 million to upgrade Osawa's flexible production line. Unifor will hold a dialogue with GM on November 26, local time. More information will be provided after the meeting. The Oshawa plant is located in the northeast of Toronto and currently has two production lines. Flexible production lines produce Cadillac XTS and Chevrolet Impala with lower sales, while truck production lines produce light and heavy Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra pickups. The reorganization project of Oshawa plant started in 2018, and this summer increased the production of heavy pickup trucks and the second round of production shifts. GM spokesman Kim Carpenter said the project will run until the end of 2019 based on market demand. She said the project had been a great success, with production expected to exceed expectations, with an annual output of about 60,000 vehicles. General Oshawa plant began production on November 7, 1953. Before 1953, the plant produced McLaughlin Buick models. Before Chevrolet merged with General Motors in 1918, the plant became one of the six major plants for Chevrolet models.
  7. I have a 99 Grand Am SE with 186K miles on it. It has had its share of problems within the past 6 months. To call it an oil "leak" would be an understatement. The oil is literally dropping right out of the bottom. I have to carry a quart of oil in my car and top it off a bit to get the "low oil" light to come off. The car will drive about 20 miles before the "low oil" light comes on again. I have to refill the oil every time i park and restart the car. A little history: For the 6 years or so, I'm pretty sure I had a head gasket or lower intake valve leak. These engines are known for this. But I was able to easily manage this. This would cause the coolant to slowly leak, and every month I would top off the reservoir. The oil would leak/burn too, but not much - I'd use just a quart in between oil changes. Then within the past couple years, it became progressively worse. The coolant began to leak faster, perhaps weekly, and the car would tend to overheat in the summer - so I had to run the heat in the summer to keep the thermostat level. In the winter, with the heat already running, the engine runs too cool and thermostat never reaches 200 degrees. At one point this winter, my oil was so thick and yellow sludge from not warming up enough. I am probably going to buy a new car at this point, I think it's done. Just wondering what the problem is or if I could plug up the hole somehow at home.
  8. General Motors plans to invest $1 billion in U.S. factories and add thousands of new white-collar jobs, measures that have been in the works for years but announced Tuesday after criticism from President-elect Donald Trump. In all, the Detroit automaker said it will create or keep 7,000 jobs in the next few years, including about 2,000 at its factories. Another 5,000 new positions will be created at its auto financing arm and to develop advanced technology, electric and autonomous vehicles and information technology.
  9. I have a 99 Grand Am SE with 186K miles on it. It has had its share of problems within the past 6 months. To call it an oil "leak" would be an understatement. The oil is literally dropping right out of the bottom. I have to carry a quart of oil in my car and top it off a bit to get the "low oil" light to come off. The car will drive about 20 miles before the "low oil" light comes on again. I have to refill the oil every time i park and restart the car. A little history: For the 6 years or so, I'm pretty sure I had a head gasket or lower intake valve leak. These engines are known for this. But I was able to easily manage this. This would cause the coolant to slowly leak, and every month I would top off the reservoir. The oil would leak/burn too, but not much - I'd use just a quart in between oil changes. Then within the past couple years, it became progressively worse. The coolant began to leak faster, perhaps weekly, and the car would tend to overheat in the summer - so I had to run the heat in the summer to keep the thermostat level. In the winter, with the heat already running, the engine runs too cool and thermostat never reaches 200 degrees. At one point this winter, my oil was so thick and yellow sludge from not warming up enough. I am probably going to buy a new car at this point, I think it's done. Just wondering what the problem is or if I could plug up the hole somehow at home.
  10. Hi everyone, I would like to know your opinions on Vauxhall cars in the UK, or Opel cars in Europe. Given the recent overcapacity of production in Europe what will happen to these brands or what will GM decide to do with them considering they have been making consecutive losses for over 10 years. If you know anything about their restructuring plans (Drive 2022) as well, do you think this will work for the brands to come out of the red ink ?? Regards Pete
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