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Found 5 results

  1. In 4th, 5th and 6th grade, after stepping on gas or releasing it suddenly, my car does a clack sound, like a metallic part hits another one for one time. It happens almost always unless I switch the gear really slowly. Its been hapening since I bought the car 20000 km ago. I ve bought a new motor bracket (the deteriorated one, not all of them) and the dualmass flywheel, which had another problems. Btw, I guess its not a silentblock nor a bracket, it has to be a transmission problem. I have no idea My car is a mondeo from 2003, TDCI. Sorry for my bad english.
  2. When I talking about misfire some days ago, got a comment saying that she had misfire before and it turned out to be sensor issue. Then it occurs to me that there is an occasion that sensors are working fine, the actual problem is AFR inappropriate. The syndrome of this problem could be car shaking/trembling, idle speed goes too high and too low, even misfire. So I use my Topdon Artipad to scan the DTC, and got P0171. There are many possible reason for this code, you can google it, but I will summarize the essence is too much air too little fuel. When AFR is incorrect, it actually means fuel is less and air too much, the essence is too much O2 in emission. For fuel system, when air intake is fixed, the AFR will be incorrect if fuel intake is low due to component issue. For exhaust system, when air intake is fixed, air leak, O2 sensor and AFR sensor detect and exhaust system related EGR should also be considered. For the intake system, when air intake is fixed, sensor features change, leads to fuel intake less than normal. For ignition system, when air intake is fixed, what’s the reason? Think about it, when misfire, mixed gas not completed burnt, O2 sensor or AFR sensor detect too much O2 in exhaust pipe. Some inexperienced technicians might think O2 sensor and AFR sensor broken that cause this problem. But I think the exact opposite, the sensors are working just fine. P0171 and P0172 are generated because they are monitoring, but, if you don’t fix the issue asap, sensors will be dead after a while. For my last article on misfire, you can click to my profile or search "my shallow analysis on engine misfire".
  3. I am a 17 y/o who just got an '04 ram 1500 5.7L Hemi as my first car. It's a beast and I love it, but it clearly doesn't get very good gas mileage. I've removed some extra weight, filled my tires to the max PSI, and adjusted my driving habits which has already saved me a couple mpgs as it is, but I'm looking to see if there's anything I can swap out or install that will help. All I've found so far thats promising is a k&n performance air filter and short ram/cold air intake system? Can anyone tell me if these are legit and if there are any other aftermarket parts that can help me out? Not expecting any crazy gains but every bit helps.
  4. WHATS THE DIFFRENCE? AND IS IT WORTH THE EXTRA CASH ? This Topic is about the different types of gas that are commonly available to you and me as consumers and how they affect our vehicles and our pocket books. There are a couple myths out there that need to be put to rest. Such as… A higher octane gas will make my car get better gas mileage. But before we get into these myths I feel it’s appropriate to educate my fellow consumers on how octane ratings are acquired and the differences between them. To start you might have the question “What is octane?”. There are actually two definitions. One is chemical: Octane is a flammable hydrocarbon liquid that along with other hydrocarbons pentane, hexane, heptane, and many others is refined from crude oil and makes up the blend of chemical components called gasoline. A second definition: Octane is a measure of a fuel’s tendency to knock or ping when it is mixed with air and burned in the cylinder of an engine. This octane rating is not based on the amount of chemical octane in the gasoline. The rating is called octane because the gasoline’s ability to prevent engine knock has been rated against the performance of pure hydrocarbon octane, which has a rating of 100.Gasoline, which is made from a blend of many other hydrocarbons, may have a higher or lower rating, depending on how its anti-knock performance compares to the performance of pure hydrocarbon octane. So with this being said the octane rating of gasoline is determined by average of two methods. The First one is “the Motor Method or (MON)” basically what this is; is gasoline is run through and engine under load to determine knock hesitance. The second being “Research Method or (RON)” which is running the fuel in a test engine with a variable compression ratio under controlled conditions, and comparing the results of different mixtures. Then they take the results of the test and average those to get the AKI (Anti-Knock Index) Otherwise known as Octane or the number you see on the pump. The differences between the octanes are simple the higher the octane the higher the bigger the combustion or fire. Thus the higher the octane the higher compression in your engine. Now on to the myths of gasoline we have all heard. The first myth “A higher octane gas will make my car get better gas mileage?” No this is not true. In general, if your car is designed to run on 87 octane gasoline, high octane gasoline will not improve mileage. If switching to high octane gasoline does improve mileage, you might find that your engine, or its control systems, need repair. “Will I get more horsepower?” You will not get more noticeable horsepower from higher octane gas. Your engine is designed by the manufacture to run at optimum levels and the manufacture has determined the best gas for their motor design. Third… “Higher octane gas is better!” Additional refining steps are used to increase the octane; however, these additional steps do not necessarily make the gasoline a “better” product for all engines. They just mix a different blend of additives that burn more slowly. The additional steps also increase the price. Last “If I put higher octane gas in my car will it clean my motor?” No this is not true. Pretty much all gas is the same when it comes to the amount of detergents that are added to gas. The amount of detergents in gasoline is controlled by the government to help keep carbon levels down and keep our fuels clean. So in closing there is no need to put “SUPER PRIEMUM” in your vehicles if it is not recommended by the manufacture. If you don’t know what is recommended see your owner’s manual and it will guide you. At the end of the day save your money and just use what is recommended by the manufacture. The writer of this article works at Durrett Motor Company in Houston Texas. Link removed
  5. I constantly read about the massive amounts of compressed natural gas in the states and yet we have very few CNG cars available to us. If the government would have spent the money they wasted on corn based ethanol on a CNG infrastructure then we would be saving $20-30 dollars or more on a fill up plus not spending our money on home energy instead of purchasing foreign oil. Auto manufacturers can make a duel fuel setup that allows one to switch fuels on the go. CNG tank for short-range and gasoline for extended range. Is there something I am missing or does this make sense?
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