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Showing results for tags 'engine'.
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New Engine When we buy a car, we say that the mileage and engine of the car should be good for a long time. With the passage of time as the engine comes to its final stage, then there is a need to swap in a new engine. Because with time new technology is being developed, this not only increases the life of the vehicle but also increases its mileage. So buy a high capacity, efficient new car engine to enhance the performance of the vehicle. New Engine For Sale With time comes the idea of selling old car and want to buy new car for better performance but Instead of buying a new car, buying a new engine is a better option. However, with this you can make your vehicle back to use for less money, which can be a good option. Even installing a new engine on an old car will add to its value. Visit us: https://autotechio.com/new-engine/
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I have a 2002 Acura rsx type s, I’ve noticed my car/engine has started vibrating a lot more while at idle. Was wondering if anyone had that same issue, whether it’s the engine mounts or something else idk.
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When I talking about misfire some days ago, got a comment saying that she had misfire before and it turned out to be sensor issue. Then it occurs to me that there is an occasion that sensors are working fine, the actual problem is AFR inappropriate. The syndrome of this problem could be car shaking/trembling, idle speed goes too high and too low, even misfire. So I use my Topdon Artipad to scan the DTC, and got P0171. There are many possible reason for this code, you can google it, but I will summarize the essence is too much air too little fuel. When AFR is incorrect, it actually means fuel is less and air too much, the essence is too much O2 in emission. For fuel system, when air intake is fixed, the AFR will be incorrect if fuel intake is low due to component issue. For exhaust system, when air intake is fixed, air leak, O2 sensor and AFR sensor detect and exhaust system related EGR should also be considered. For the intake system, when air intake is fixed, sensor features change, leads to fuel intake less than normal. For ignition system, when air intake is fixed, what’s the reason? Think about it, when misfire, mixed gas not completed burnt, O2 sensor or AFR sensor detect too much O2 in exhaust pipe. Some inexperienced technicians might think O2 sensor and AFR sensor broken that cause this problem. But I think the exact opposite, the sensors are working just fine. P0171 and P0172 are generated because they are monitoring, but, if you don’t fix the issue asap, sensors will be dead after a while. For my last article on misfire, you can click to my profile or search "my shallow analysis on engine misfire".
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I’ve been working on my Blazer a lot lately as it’s been driving a bit off. I noticed this hose was broken / detached and was curious as to what it is and or the severity of it! I appreciate all input and assistance.
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I have a video but it won’t let me upload it so if anyone needs to see it please lmk, but the engine is knocking and I can tell if it’s the piston slapping or if it’s the rod knocking.
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I have been having overheating issues with my 2005 HEMI Jeep Grand Cherokee (113K Miles) for as long as I can remember. The dealer told me time and time again that these SUV's just run hot. I replaced the Radiator and Thermostat and noticed very little improvement. I tried every Antifreeze/Coolant out there with little success! A friend of mine recommended a Coolant Additive from a Company called Nano Pro MT called NANO COOL. It cost $17.99 via their eBay Store ( https://www.ebay.com/itm/100-Authentic-Nano-Pro-MT-NANO-Cool-Antifreeze-Coolant-Additive-Brand-New-2020/164024870872?hash=item2630a4e7d8:g:NmgAAOSw3~ZeHKBV) and came in a 16oz Bottle! I flushed the Radiator put new Coolant in along with The Nano Cool Additive. The following day I put about 25 miles on the Jeep in heavy Rush Hour Traffic and was amazed with the result. My temperature gauge averaged 9-10 degrees cooler and the Temp gauge never got close to the "Danger Zone" . I am going on 2 weeks and 300+ miles on the same bottle on Nano Cool mixed with my regular Coolant and the engine temp is the same as the day I added the Nano Cool! I was very skeptical in the beginning however, now I swear by this stuff and purchased a Full Case and a few of their other products from their eBay Store ( https://www.ebay.com/usr/nanopromt). They also have excellent customer service and answered all of my questions promptly. I thought I would share this Hidden Gem in case anyone else out there is having overheating issues with their vehicle! I have attached pictures I pulled from their website! The company looks to be pretty serious on the Racing Scene and connected to Roush Performance! Happy New Year, Cheers, Chris
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- antifreeze
- coolant
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So, I've learned about the non-interference engine yesterday and I've been thinking about it for a while. Because the pistons can't get damaged by the valves, does that mean that i can basically rev my engine up past the redline? or is there still some type of limitation? Also, does that mean that i can significantly increase the output of the engine?
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Earlier this year I blew an oil line in my 2007 CTS and it caused my engine block to blow. I am in the process of looking for a new engine or an entirely new car for parts. I had an offer come up for a 2006 CTS 3.6 L engine with 80k miles. I have tried to find the dimensions for the engines but have failed. From my research, I have discovered that it is quite common for the 2006-2008 models to have engine failures. My question is... Will a 2006 engine fit inside my 2007 CTS?
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I need to replace my fuel injectors, but I don’t have the money to spend like 60$ for each (4). Much cheaper options are on places like Ebay and Amazon (as low as $30-40 for all four), but are they worth it? And if they end up being faulty, am I risking damage to my vehicle?
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- maintenance
- engine
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Hello, I am posting this question on behalf of my mother, regarding a 1994 Mazda Miata that she only drives once a week for short errands. The neighbor advised that she idle/run the engine for ten to fifteen minutes every few days to improve the health of the car. Lately she noticed the hood getting very hot during these sessions. The summer heat contributes but she thinks it is still too hot. The meter in the dashboard that gives a hot/cool reading points to just below halfway, after the engine has been idling for a while. When she drives a few minutes down the road for weekly errands the meter's dial will point to just below halfway between hot and cool, also. Is this normal? She will need to drive a half-hour trip soon and I want to be sure the car is fit to drive that far. Any help is appreciated!
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Hey all - messaging in from Boston, MA where it is 5 degrees. My girlfriend was scraping the ice off her car's windshield and the surrounding area and accidentally broke through the plastic piece the connects the hood and the windshield (see photo attached). I know very little about cars, but am thinking that it is probably imperative that I get this covered up, as the hole is leaving the engine exposed to some pretty brutal conditions. However, the car is completely snowed in so taking it into the shop isn't really an option. Any ideas on how to cover it up in the meantime? Thanks!!!
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- plastic
- minicooper
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Hey guys, I made a rookie mistake. I accidentally forgot I had a screw in my hand and when I went down to look under the car. My hand had popped against the front bumper releasing the screw to land right on top of my Intercooler. Upon trying to get it out I pushed it further right between the radiator and Intercooler. At this point I’m assuming it has dropped on the splash guard, but if not what risk does this impose when I’m driving. Will it be fine? Thank you for your time! the picture below is where it landed and than the arrow points to where it has gone to.
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- intercooler
- radiator
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ls/lt/hemi/coyote engine cart/stand Design Features: -Heavy Duty Urethane 4″ diameter swivel casters so they move extremely easy (unlike the import stands) -1/4″ thick top plates and 2″ sq. 11ga. structural tube bases -Professionally mig welded construction -For use with manifolds or without -For use with manual or automatic transmission -Compact design for storage of engines, cart does not exceed the physical size of the engine itself -Powder Coated finish for durability and good looks, COLOR: SILVER VEIN -We use these for engine storage, assembly, mock-up, engine and transmission installs, motor plate fabrication,oil pan inspection and swap, etc. -Designed and fabricated in our shop in the USA NOTE: Will not fit with the C5 batwing oil pan Fitment: LS 4.8, 5.3, 5.7, 6.0, 6.2, LS1, LS2, LS3, LS6, LS7, LS9, LT1, LT4, L33, L83, L86, LQ4, LQ9, LSX376, LSX427, LSX454, C5 C6 C7 CORVETTE, CAMARO SS, GTO, G8 GT, ETC. Fitment: DODGE CHRYSLER HEMI ENGINES, V8 5.7, 6.1, 6.2, 6.4 motors. Challenger, Hellcat, Scat Pack, Charger, Super Bee, Demon, etc. NOTES: -Not all of the motor mounts bolt holes on the block will be used depending on which engine you are using. -Will not fit the earlier 1st gen 392 & 426 Hemi engines Where to buy?!?! (Link below) https://motorheadtechniques.com/2018/08/14/engine-stand-cart-cradle-fits-both-the-ls-gen-5-lt-with-trans-4-casters/
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I've been looking into the rx8 for a while now and I've seen on many forums that you have to care for the engine properly so that it doesn't get damaged. So what are the steps to take care of your engine to keep it healthy?
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Hello there, New to this forum and relatively new to the world of cars. I have been trying to get my first car on and off for about a year now. I have decided that I want to get a pre 05 Toyota sienna. My budget is going to be around 5000 im trying to get one for around 3k and then put 2-3k of work into it at a mechanic. That's where this forum comes in! Im in the nyc area so I assume if I search ill be able to find a decent one since there are always plenty listed. Once this happens and after the mechanic inspects it what work would you guys recommend I have preemptively done to it? Obviously ill need to remedy any problems the mechanic and prior owner note. I read somewhere that putting in a new set of sensors and electronics is a good investment. Just putting my thoughts on here. Anyways, just trying to see what others think. Thanks in advance for the help.
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I have a 350 chevy small block in my 79 camaro and the power steering belt is constantly slackening. I have not driven the car more than a few hundred yards because its not yet street legal so it is not becoming loose due to it just stretching like normal over the first 100 miles. I have a brand new power steering belt and have replaced the power steering pump as well. i have tightened the belt twice now after i have just run the car for a couple minutes without it going anywhere and each time it slips back to where it is loose again. I have tightened all the bolts and it keeps doing it so I'm not sure what to do now. Any and all answers or advice are appreciated. thanks!
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- power steering
- engine
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I've been watching Reality Rides (a new series airing 0ctober 5th Velocity 9am) and its so great all the guys in it really know what they're doing. This Buick is so beautiful I'd love to go for a beer with these guys they're so down to earth catch the trailer here:
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- restoration
- car build
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My partner and I are trying to develop a new vehicle system that could potentially increase the efficiency of your vehicle up to 10%. We're still in the developmental stages and we really need some feedback from drivers. Please take 5 minutes to take our short survey! Thank you! Survey: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1V_kovHDHToEqTrodd7I-4RwwyChHGCPy_dX2RTpco8A/viewform
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- efficiency
- cars
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I have a 2011 Mazda 3 s hatchback. I'm not sure if I should get a cold air intake or a short ram intake. I'm also not sure which brand I should get. Could I please get some help? Thanks guys. It would help a lot.
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- engine
- Cold air intake
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Hello everybody. So, this morning, I start my car, and everything was fine for a while. After stopping on one of the 20 or so traffic lights I go thorugh on my way to the office, I notice that the car does not seem to be accelerating that well. It gets to 40-45 eventually, but not as fast as it normally would. I stop to get something to eat, and when I put the car in idle before shutting off the engine, the engine shuts off by itself. I've had this happen to me before a few years ago, and it turned out to only be a broken exhaust system hose, which after a $45 fix, stopped happening. I start the engine again after eating, only this time, after I reach 30 MPH or thereabouts, the car shuts down. When I bring the car to a complete stop and try to start the engine again, I hear a "disengaged" crank, and the engine does not start. I keep trying to start the engine, and over the course of the next few minutes, the cranking starts sounding more and more 'engaged' during every start attempt, until the engine starts again, and I can drive again - as long as I do not go over 30 MPH or thereabouts. I wanted to check and see if anybody here has had something like this happen before, or has any idea what this could be. Car is a 2002 Ford Escort ZX-2. Thank you.
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Hello there, so im planning on buying my first car soon and i have a car in my mind that i want to purchase.. it's the Mazda RX8. I have a friend who knew someone who owned an rx-7 and told me that he always had to change the oil and maintain it literaly everyday. But this car i really want to get so i was hoping you's could give me the obvious pointers on how to maintain a car with a rotary engine ? what do i need to do in order to get the most out of this car ? Wether it is changing the oil , what type of oil maybe ? IDK you's are the smart ones , HELP! -Fillip.