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Found 5 results

  1. Hello guys i need help today i took this remote control for central locking https://www.manua.ls/joblotron/cl-301/manual and i tried to somehow connect it to a servomotor in driver door i took the cables from it and tried connecting it but it didnt work i just dont know how exactly i need to connect it. I took a photo of the cables and i know that if you short white/purple with orange/black it opens doors and if you short yellow/black with orange/black it closes and thats all i know. For now i just connected one wire from remote c. that was supposed to go into turn signal to the white/purple cable that allows me to atleast open my car remotely which is great for now but can you help me with the cables so i can make it the good way and then i can open and even close my car ? Thanks for all replies
  2. Recently I got a 2006 Nissan 350z (Enthusiast trim) with 250,000 miles (mostly highway). The previous owner was quite the stoner, judging by what we found in the various interior compartments during its first detail. After checking around the car, I noticed that the previous owner, let's call him Chad, had installed an aftermarket audio system and subwoofer. Great right? Who doesn't love getting a little extra in their investments? Well, let's just say that Chad was probably high as a kite when he installed this system. The first thing we noticed was that the subwoofer was set to take all frequencies of audio, not just the low ones. In case you didn't know, subwoofers are specifically designed to handle and play the lower sounds in your music. Alright, we said, maybe that was a little dumb but it isn't a huge deal and we can just fix it real quick. Well, as I was finishing up the installation of my first mod (a CAI) we noticed that something looked a little off by the battery. The wiring for the audio system, to be exact. When we took a look at the wires we found a fuse on the negative wire and absolutely nothing on the positive wire. Anyone who has basic electrical knowledge would know just how wrong that is. I was shocked to find out that I had been driving around with such a dangerous fire hazard under my hood. If something had gone wrong with the wiring there would have been absolutely nothing to prevent my car from bursting into flames. I wish I had taken a picture! Of course, we fixed it and all is right now, but man that was something...
  3. Hello there, it's my first post. I would like to ask for your kind advice. The other night, when I started my Hyundai Accent Sedan 2016 (Gas), I noticed that my Check Engine light went on and blinked for nearly around a minute before going away. I observed it for a few moments and then proceeded with driving out. I checked with the nearby auto shop what might be wrong and how much it would cost to diagnose it. They ruled out spark plugs and sparkplug wires right away, saying the engine started with too much power for it to be a sparkplug issue. They recommended doing a scanner test. This would cost 1,250 PhP (or $20+ in USD). My question, would the scanner still work and be able to diagnose my car's problem even though the Check Engine light has NOT gone ON ever since that night? It may not seem much to some here, but $20+ USD from where I am from is substantial, especially for a DIAGNOSTIC. I just want to make sure that the money will NOT be wasted and will actually yield some positive result. I'm in the middle of switching jobs, so I really cannot afford to waste any money right now. :( Additional info (if it helps): - I've traveled nearly 100 KM since the night the light came on, and the light has NOT came back on since then. - Since that night though, I noticed that the Estimated Kilometer Range (the one that predicts how many KMs before you're out of fuel, but not the fuel gauge) hasn't been working properly. I would travel 3-5 KMs and it would not move, then will deduct the KMs in bulk later, and sometimes would even return a KM or 2. The E-F fuel gauge seems to be working fine though, along with everything else. Everything is digital except for tacho and speedo which are working fine as well. - I've had a faulty car alarm for more than a year now. I had it checked last year and they diagnosed it to fried or short-circuited I believe. I didn't have it removed though in a hope it could be repaired, but I've abandoned hope on that now. It doesn't even make a sound anymore if I open the car without unlocking, only the lights go on. I suspect this may be involved in the interference. Could it? I'm sorry for the long post. I really hope someone can help.
  4. Hi all, I have an 2005 Mk2 Focus 1.6 petrol Ti-VCT which has the electronically controlled thermostat. I am struggling with overheating issues, I wonder if anyone has any good tips After seeing the typical symptoms (pressure cap opens after it can't take it anymore and coolant is released through the cap the rest boils) I have found that the thermostat does not open. There is no or barely any circulation through the radiator. The dashboard gauge inside raises to 75°C normally, but stays there even if temperatures are way above 100°C Just to cross out other possibilities: - Using a garden hose I flushed all lines through the engine, the hoses, the radiator, there is no blockage in the system - the water pump is in good condition and creates the require head pressure - de-airing valve seem to be working fine - thermostat has been replaced, same symptoms with the new one - coolant thermal sensor (on the other side of the engine) replaced, same symptoms with the new one - cylinder head is sound, not cracked (checked by mechanic + coolant is clear) - Expansion tank cap replaced So all I have left to assume is that the thermostat doesn't get the electronic control signal to open. This type of thermostat doesn't open just by itself if dipped in boiling water(tested). I followed the wires from the thermostat housing to the central box where a bunch of wires go and found no physical injury. I checked all the fuses (both fuse boxes) which I imagined might have a role in temperature or engine control, all sound. Is there anything I can do to find out more? Is there any way to fix this if the fault is in the central electronics? If everything else fails, does anyone have experience with using a conventional thermostat instead? It looks like the housing matches, anyone knows if it really does? Can it cause a problem in engine control if thermostat wires are not connected (as there is nowhere to connect them)? Temperatures is still a problem, the best conventional thermostat I could find opens at 92 °C while the original opens at 98 °C. It still might be okay I guess, if 92 is measured before the engine and 98 is originally measured after the engine at the thermal sensor, then close enough I assume. Any comments, tips appreciated!
  5. Hello, im new to the automotive scene and this is my first car. Its a 93 Nissan Pathfinder 5spd. So far my starter has quit, i replaced it and everything was fine. Next my alternator goes, So i installed a new one. But now when i re-connected my wires to the positive and negative terminal it started sparking and smoking. I have clip fusible links that fried from my positive cable, so i replaced those. But it still is sparking/smoking. I cannot figure out the problem. I also replaced my main and check relay and checked all my fuses. I kno that it could be a short somewhere in the electrical, but my problem is i dont know where. It all was working fine untill i did the alternator. If you could please help that would be great!
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