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Showing results for tags 'electrical'.
Found 13 results
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Mr. Vuong The Trung, an American overseas Vietnamese in New York, with his wife and 2 children, was present at VinFast's booth early. He shared that he had heard information about VinFast before, but this was the first time experiencing an electric car in Vietnam. This customer expressed a special impression of the intelligent virtual assistant on the VF 8. “This will be my next car”, this person said. -
Recently I got a 2006 Nissan 350z (Enthusiast trim) with 250,000 miles (mostly highway). The previous owner was quite the stoner, judging by what we found in the various interior compartments during its first detail. After checking around the car, I noticed that the previous owner, let's call him Chad, had installed an aftermarket audio system and subwoofer. Great right? Who doesn't love getting a little extra in their investments? Well, let's just say that Chad was probably high as a kite when he installed this system. The first thing we noticed was that the subwoofer was set to take all frequencies of audio, not just the low ones. In case you didn't know, subwoofers are specifically designed to handle and play the lower sounds in your music. Alright, we said, maybe that was a little dumb but it isn't a huge deal and we can just fix it real quick. Well, as I was finishing up the installation of my first mod (a CAI) we noticed that something looked a little off by the battery. The wiring for the audio system, to be exact. When we took a look at the wires we found a fuse on the negative wire and absolutely nothing on the positive wire. Anyone who has basic electrical knowledge would know just how wrong that is. I was shocked to find out that I had been driving around with such a dangerous fire hazard under my hood. If something had gone wrong with the wiring there would have been absolutely nothing to prevent my car from bursting into flames. I wish I had taken a picture! Of course, we fixed it and all is right now, but man that was something... -
hi I removed a remote starter from my 04 gmc sierra 2500hd. now when i go to start it, it starts and immediately dies. wondering if I'm missing something easy, or if I just ruined my pickup? any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks in advance. -
Hey there everyone. How's this for my first post. I've been having trouble with my partner's 1997 ford laser. We had completed a head unit swap over with no issues, and all had worked fine. A little while later we had changed the battery out and something must have surged as we had blown the main 100amp fuse in the engine compartment. No worries, we replaced it and everything was fine.... but not the radio, clock, or interior lights. Now I understand checking fuses if the very first thing you do. So I did just that. I had checked every single fuse from the engine compartment, to the drivers kick panel, and even inline fuses under the dash all with the help of a multimeter. Every fuse I had checked though was perfectly fine and was putting out the 12 volts. Yet for some reason, they don't want to work. As for the radio, it's only the yellow 12 volt constant wire not receiving any power. As for the clock and interior lights... not too sure as to why they're not working. I'm not too bad with these sorts of things. But after going over every single fuse, forum, owner's manual, and everything else you could imagine... I'm finally stuck. If there's anything obvious I may have missed or someone who has had a similar issue, please let me know so I can get this damn thing off my mind once and for all. If the above is not as descriptive or in-depth enough, I'm more than happy to provide either a photo or video to help make things a little easier. Many thanks in advance guys, really appreciate anyone going to the effort to help us out. Cheers, -Michael 😁
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So I’ve got an 08 Patriot. A few days ago, the headlights and taillights turn on as soon as I start the car, and turn off when the car is off. The dash dims and remains dim as soon as the lights kick on, as though the headlights were turned on. is this a sign of a failing multifunction switch or is there another likely cause??
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03 Volkswagen Jetta, car horn and steer wheel controls are not working, checked fuse box and everything was fine -
Car: 1999 Honda Accord V6. I recently started having problems with my car starting. It started a little while after I changed out my bad alternator. My other alternator went bad because of the voltage regulator (I think). I'm not car savvy but I want to try to address this problem myself before I take it to a shop and pay out the ass. The car will crank but won't start, and banging around underneath the steering wheel will eventually get it to start. Not sure if its related, but the light behind my D4 on the dashboard comes on when its able to start and it wont start when the light isnt on. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
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Hello! I own a Nissan Versa, 2012, SV model. 175,000 miles. Heres my issue: when I am driving, it randomly jerks. It feels like it shifts fine, no grinding. There is no specific speed that it does so, it is random. Put cleaner in it, believing it was bad gas. Still it jerked. First mechanic checked the computer. Engine looked fine. He made the engine misfire to ensure the computer read it, it did. It doesn’t seem to be the engine - computer did not read an issue with it. He assumed it was the transmission. So my wife and I thought our car was totaled. Heres where it gets a little weird. As a last ditch effort, I took it to the Nissan dealership for a diagnostic test. They checked the engine and transmission. They said they both look fine. The reason for the jerking? The tail lights. The car had been in a small accident and the tail lights both had cracks in them, causing moisture to build up in the tail light. This, they said, was causing a short and it was setting off a chain reaction which made the car jerk. They said that if the tail lights were replaced, the issue would go away. And finally, here’s my problem: we replaced the tail lights. We lucked out and found the exact match, basically unused at a junkyard down the road. They work perfectly. We cleaned the connectors that attach to the tail lights with electrical spray cleaner. Everything is dry and clean - by the looks of it. Everything looks good. No evidence of burned cables. But, you guessed it, it still jerks. Just as bad if not worse. If the transmission looks good, the engine looks good, and the tail lights were replaced, what could it be? I would greatly appreciate any of your insights and thank you so much for your time! Garrett
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I was installing an aftermarket radio in my Corolla, and like an idiot I left the battery hooked up. The wrong two wires touched, and I heard a sizzle. I finished installing the radio, but there is no power to it. Also not sure if it's related, but the open door light also isn't coming on. Everything else seems to be working fine. Radio fuse looks ok. What could be wrong?
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I just got a 2014 Volkswagen Jetta 1.8T SE, and so far I've had no problems with the car itself. When I have the radio playing, there isn't any problems with it, but when I have my phone plugged into the aux cord, the bass sounds really bad. I've tried everything to get this to go away. It sounds really scratchy and if I have the volume turned up loud, it sounds worse. I've tried turning the bass down on my car and it doesnt change anything. This is only when I have my phone plugged into the aux cord. Can someone tell me what's wrong with it?
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I have a 2004 grand cherokee Limited4.7L v8, I just recently bought this car off Craigslist, and it’s giving me hell! My break light and Abs light come on and off, usually when I rev the engine, and when I start the car some loud noises come from the sound system, however, the lights do not show on the radio. I took it into auto zone to get the alternator check and they told me that the vultage regulator is providing too much load on the battery. Could this be the answer to why I’m getting warning lights and sound problems? The odometer keeps disappearing as well. Its giving the batter 17.5v
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For the past 6 or so years I have gone through 3 car batteries. I started to think something else was going on with the car because the batteries should not be dying that quickly. I started looking into the electrical system for answers. Recently I have found that my car is consistently and periodically going from .032 amps to 1.8 amps when the car is completely off with no circuit load. I have heard from people and the internet that when the car is completely off with nothing acting as a load, then the current through the system should be no more than 50 mA. I actually just signed up for this site because I can't find any solution online to this problem. I am going to try and upload a video so it can better depict the ammeters story because I bet I am confusing. Drill me with questions so we can get this problem resolved because I believe that the current draw(overnight) and recharging due to running the car is actually shortening the battery life significantly. Almost forgot I have a 2003 chevy impala 3.8 Litter engine. I know the next step will be to remove the fuses one by one and watch the current to see when it drops but the thing is the door switches that disarm the startup procedure is built into the door. I am hoping someone with a little more car experience will be able to tell me without this diagnostic procedure what is actually going on. I could not get a video but here is a picture as to what is happening. The current through the battery is periodically switching between these 2 values. the 1.8 amp reading will measure for about 20 seconds and then fall down to the .038 reading which lasts about 7 seconds.
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2006 Lincoln Zephyr 3.0L v6, FWD Stock radio, no navigation 61000K miles I just bought the car, almost positive it has the factory alternator never been changed. I had put in: 2 CVR-12 Kickers, power acoustik 1800w 2 channel Class A/B amp, no power capacitor as I experienced with my old car that it made the alternator worst. So this time instead of installing it myself I took it to best buy, bought my own wire kit (power acoustic 4GA) even tho the wire kid says 4 gauge, the guy said its too slim, not really a 4ga, he cant put a warranty on it, but he will install it. So I told him to do so. Now today I have noticed a clicking like sound coming from the engine, sounds like maybe one of the pulleys. Don't want to blow the alternator out, or have any snapped belts. Anyone had this problem?? Or how can I tell how many amps ismy alternator?? What kind of alternator do I need? Or is it all fine and I'm over reacting??
