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Showing results for tags 'dodge'.
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Hey all. I recently purchased a 2005 Dodge Magnum RT 5.7 HEMI AWD All and all the car runs great and for the price I paid for her, I felt she was worth buying even with the known issues. So, first off, the previous owner felt the need to hook up all this...extra stuff. They had pulled out the dash, installed a cheap cd/mp3 player, light bars on the inside and out that are customizable, ran a cellphone charger through the dash and installed subwoofers. Cool I guess. When it came time to finish up, he didn't. Left the wiring hanging out, put a Chrysler 300 dash frame back on for some reason and never did anything else. The seller assumes that because of his...tinkering, he caused some issues. The backlight to the cluster doesn't work. Gas gauge doesn't work etc. But the biggest one seems to be that the esp/bas light continually comes on. But it doesn't come on randomly, it comes on after you try to put the pedal to the medal and for some reason the tires sort of lock up, lurches looses a bit of power but doesn't die. You let up and it's perfectly fine. Idles and drives perfect everytime. I hooked it up to a reader and it pulled 9 codes; U0002, P2638, U1402, U0121, U0103, U0100, U0155, U110b, U0164. I haven't researched them extensively, but so far they all seem to be a loss of communication and to check the wiring. I know that the wiring in most cars is a pain, but to have no idea what's been changed or rewired or whatever the guy did is frustrating to just think about. So finally...sorry for the long post, my question is, should I just get the entire car rewired? New harness and the works? Or should I try to individually figure out each issue on its own. I come from a car savvy family, my dad and uncle built and raced there own cars but electrical issues was never a strong point. I'm confident in my mechanical abilities but electrical? Not even the slightest clue where to even start. If someone could just point me in a good direction to start would be awesome and any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks for taking the time reading my extra long post. Hopefully I can get this awesome wagon back up to where she should be.
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Can I have your views since im planning to buy a SUV and there loads of stuff to choose from and im confused😭 List of my prospect: Ford escape Nissan rouge/murano Jeep compact Kia sportage Dodge journey or something that you may recomment.
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Hello! I am currently dealing with a leaking AC line on my 2010 Dodge Journey. I know where the leak is (it's on a rubber hose). I was wondering if I could get away with putting some gorilla tape or some flex tape over the leaking hose and get away with that. I know I would have to put some more freon in.
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Hey everyone I’m a new automotive YouTuber and I just uploaded a new Copart walk around video go check it out⬇️ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJ07uVNBteM
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Hey I need help ASAP!! My truck motor just went out I think it was the head gaskets...but my question is if I’m swap my motor with the same generation dodge (2nd gen) so if it’s a 4.7 or the 5.2 can I put it in my truck with the 5.9l v8 magnum?
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Hello! My name is Emma, I am new to this forum. I joined CarForums because I received a 2008 Dodge Grand Caravan for free, and it needs some work to be certified. This van has 305 000 kms on it, however we have no other vehicle right now (and we REALLY need one) so we feel inclined to fix it up for short term use. My boyfriend and I don't know much about cars but we can tell that there's a few things that need to be replaced. The most obvious thing is the windshield, and aside from that it seems like there is quite a bit of corrosion under the hood. A lot of hoses are looking very worn out and some things may be leaking. We are hoping to seek advice from people who know more than we do, we have included a photo of under the hood. I can upload more pictures if needed. Please give me your opinion, what needs to be replaced? Is it worth fixing up? Also keep in mind we don't intend to use this vehicle for very long, we just want it to get us by for a few months. Thanks in advance 😊 -
ls/lt/hemi/coyote engine cart/stand Design Features: -Heavy Duty Urethane 4″ diameter swivel casters so they move extremely easy (unlike the import stands) -1/4″ thick top plates and 2″ sq. 11ga. structural tube bases -Professionally mig welded construction -For use with manifolds or without -For use with manual or automatic transmission -Compact design for storage of engines, cart does not exceed the physical size of the engine itself -Powder Coated finish for durability and good looks, COLOR: SILVER VEIN -We use these for engine storage, assembly, mock-up, engine and transmission installs, motor plate fabrication,oil pan inspection and swap, etc. -Designed and fabricated in our shop in the USA NOTE: Will not fit with the C5 batwing oil pan Fitment: LS 4.8, 5.3, 5.7, 6.0, 6.2, LS1, LS2, LS3, LS6, LS7, LS9, LT1, LT4, L33, L83, L86, LQ4, LQ9, LSX376, LSX427, LSX454, C5 C6 C7 CORVETTE, CAMARO SS, GTO, G8 GT, ETC. Fitment: DODGE CHRYSLER HEMI ENGINES, V8 5.7, 6.1, 6.2, 6.4 motors. Challenger, Hellcat, Scat Pack, Charger, Super Bee, Demon, etc. NOTES: -Not all of the motor mounts bolt holes on the block will be used depending on which engine you are using. -Will not fit the earlier 1st gen 392 & 426 Hemi engines Where to buy?!?! (Link below) https://motorheadtechniques.com/2018/08/14/engine-stand-cart-cradle-fits-both-the-ls-gen-5-lt-with-trans-4-casters/
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ls/lt/hemi/coyote engine cart/stand Design Features: -Heavy Duty Urethane 4″ diameter swivel casters so they move extremely easy (unlike the import stands) -1/4″ thick top plates and 2″ sq. 11ga. structural tube bases -Professionally mig welded construction -For use with manifolds or without -For use with manual or automatic transmission -Compact design for storage of engines, cart does not exceed the physical size of the engine itself -Powder Coated finish for durability and good looks, COLOR: SILVER VEIN -We use these for engine storage, assembly, mock-up, engine and transmission installs, motor plate fabrication,oil pan inspection and swap, etc. -Designed and fabricated in our shop in the USA NOTE: Will not fit with the C5 batwing oil pan Fitment: LS 4.8, 5.3, 5.7, 6.0, 6.2, LS1, LS2, LS3, LS6, LS7, LS9, LT1, LT4, L33, L83, L86, LQ4, LQ9, LSX376, LSX427, LSX454, C5 C6 C7 CORVETTE, CAMARO SS, GTO, G8 GT, ETC. Fitment: DODGE CHRYSLER HEMI ENGINES, V8 5.7, 6.1, 6.2, 6.4 motors. Challenger, Hellcat, Scat Pack, Charger, Super Bee, Demon, etc. NOTES: -Not all of the motor mounts bolt holes on the block will be used depending on which engine you are using. -Will not fit the earlier 1st gen 392 & 426 Hemi engines Where to buy?!?! (Link below) https://motorheadtechniques.com/2018/08/14/engine-stand-cart-cradle-fits-both-the-ls-gen-5-lt-with-trans-4-casters/
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Check out this great infographic from B&W Trailer Hitches timelining the evolution of trucks from the 1900s to 2012. It shows the different models and body shapes over the decades with information on horsepower and engine size for each model. It includes Ford, Chevy, Dodge and Toyota trucks as well as interesting information on towing capacities and the amount of parts of these trucks that are actually made here in the U.S. Here's the link to the infographic: http://www.turnoverb.../modern-truck-0 -
I just went out and bought a 3 gauge cluster, water temp, oil pressure, and volt meter, my first question is on the oil pressure gauge, if i tap into my oil pressure switch with a T adapter for the oil line will it rob pressure from the switch? Second, how would be the best way to tap into the water temp? and third, how is the best way to tap into the volts? i dont want to do any drilling on the block or anything permanent. Thanks for all reply's in advance!
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I don't know much about vehicles or anything for that matter. I want to know which car is faster between the two. Charger R/T Engine5.7L engine Cylinders8 cylinders Horsepower370 horsepower@5250rpm Torque395 torque@4200rpm Taurus SHO Engine3.5L engine Cylinders6 cylinders Horsepower365 horsepower@5500rpm Torque350 torque@1500rpm
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So on my way to work this mornin (luckily only a few miles from the house) and my truck just revs up to like 4000/5000 rpms and makes this rattling can noise and it won't shift into 2nd... I think its the transmission shift sensor/solenoid, but I'm not positive. I just put $500 into it "fixin it" which obviously I'm cursed because now this is out. Does anybody know the specific name of what I need bc advanced has the parts but 10 different names and range from $15 to $175. If you know, let me in on it! *thanks *
