Search the Community

Hey all. I recently purchased a 2005 Dodge Magnum RT 5.7 HEMI AWD All and all the car runs great and for the price I paid for her, I felt she was worth buying even with the known issues. So, first off, the previous owner felt the need to hook up all this...extra stuff. They had pulled out the dash, installed a cheap cd/mp3 player, light bars on the inside and out that are customizable, ran a cellphone charger through the dash and installed subwoofers. Cool I guess. When it came time to finish up, he didn't. Left the wiring hanging out, put a Chrysler 300 dash frame back on for some reason and never did anything else. The seller assumes that because of his...tinkering, he caused some issues. The backlight to the cluster doesn't work. Gas gauge doesn't work etc. But the biggest one seems to be that the esp/bas light continually comes on. But it doesn't come on randomly, it comes on after you try to put the pedal to the medal and for some reason the tires sort of lock up, lurches looses a bit of power but doesn't die. You let up and it's perfectly fine. Idles and drives perfect everytime. I hooked it up to a reader and it pulled 9 codes; U0002, P2638, U1402, U0121, U0103, U0100, U0155, U110b, U0164. I haven't researched them extensively, but so far they all seem to be a loss of communication and to check the wiring. I know that the wiring in most cars is a pain, but to have no idea what's been changed or rewired or whatever the guy did is frustrating to just think about. So finally...sorry for the long post, my question is, should I just get the entire car rewired? New harness and the works? Or should I try to individually figure out each issue on its own. I come from a car savvy family, my dad and uncle built and raced there own cars but electrical issues was never a strong point. I'm confident in my mechanical abilities but electrical? Not even the slightest clue where to even start. If someone could just point me in a good direction to start would be awesome and any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks for taking the time reading my extra long post. Hopefully I can get this awesome wagon back up to where she should be.

Hello All, Does anyone know what the 4 green plastic rods are called "technical name" in the underhood fuse box? The 4 green rods, pop up, individually, as an indicator "I guess", when you screw down each of the 4 metal bolts that secure the 1X thru X4 connectors to the underside of the fuse box. Hope this is clear

Im having the air compressor on my 07 Honda Civic EX replaced as the ac isn't working. One mechanic has told me he wont replace the compressor unless I also replace the receiver dryer at the same time. Another mechanic said the receiver dryer isn't really necessary as my ac leak isn't major, so it really isn't necessary. What's your opinion? Not sure what he considers "major"..when he puts cool air in my car, it's only lasting about 3-5 days. Thank you! Andrea

I'm working on my fathers second gen Tacoma its a 2005 4x4 with a 1GR-FE. I replaced 2 of the brake lines that had been rusted and leaking I also replaced the master cylinder. I just cant get the pedal feel to be consistent I've been over all the brake lines there no leaks. I've bled the lines like a thousand times but even when I made progress the system would just take on air again and not hold a good brake pedal feel. Is it possible for air to get into the system without fluid leaking out? I used a fitting on one of my brake lines that I think may not have been a perfect fit even though it doesn't leak and felt like a good fit is it possible air could be entering through there somehow? I had also questioned if air could be entering around the front bleeder screws because on one of the front calipers I had a series of bubbles come out that was definitely greater than the volume of the brake system. I cant find a leak anywhere and even driving it and watching the fluid level I don't seem to be losing any fluid at all. Thank you all in advance for any help you can offer.

Can anyone tell me about the best car repair and maintenance garage in Dubai in best prices

Help, im writing on here as I don’t have many men around who know anything about cars. so I passed my test a few month back and bought a car off a friend for a cheap price (£600), I know with it being a 10 year old corsa it would need a few repairs. since buying it I have had to buy 2 new tyres, a inside fan, engine fan, coil pack, radiator, coolant cap and something else which I can’t remember. This come to around £450. the other day I was driving home in quite bad snow, and I come round a corner (doing about 5mph) and my car just skidded into a parked van. We are going private so after I pay to repair his, I need: Bonnet , bumper, bumper reinforcer, radiator, air conditioner radiator, passenger headlight,slam panel for my own. Coming to about £1000 if I can manage to find second hand parts. Is this a reasonable price, and is it worth getting fixed or shall I call it a day with it being a cheap car? also, when I was driving it to the garage, the steering didn’t seem to match up with the wheels, however I don’t know if I was just imagining this as I had the bonnet raised on the right side visible through my window so maybe my mind is playing tricks?

Hello, I’m fairly new to car repair. I just replaced my starter on my 2004 GMC Sierra. After replacing the starter the truck seems to have difficulty starting up. It sounds like it’s having to turn over a few times before the vehicle actually starts. I’ve included a link to the video. Video was too large to add directly to post. Thank you for your help. https://youtu.be/3Pv9iTVYGMU

tried to replace my transfer case but ended up having to put it back together My car will not allow me to turn the key to ignition/start. The steering wheel won’t lock lock or completely unlock so I can turn the key. Also I heard bloop bloop bloop noises coming from engine bay and Joe the acceleration pedal makes clicking sound has barely any tension here is how it sounds https://youtu.be/gYpFNHNlQTI None of these things were happening before I messed with the transfer case. Only happened once last time I was in same situation but eventually worked again

If you’re a car owner, then you probably already know that having a car can be quite a commitment. After all, you can’t just let it hit the road all the time or let it linger in your garage. If you want it to run smoothly and efficiently, then car maintenance and repair are your safest bet, which means that you need to visit an auto shop or a car shop routinely. Avoid these car repair mistakes that will put your car at risk. As much as you want the best for your vehicle, there are still instances when certain car maintenance procedures can go awry, or when you forgo certain repairs — all of these, needless, to say, can be damaging to your car and your safety. In order to avoid these dangerous and costly blunders, it’s advisable that you familiarize yourself with them as early as plausible. Listed below are some of the most common car repair mistakes. What are the common car repair mistakes? Opting for a very low-cost mechanic. Filling the engine with an incorrect type of oil. Skipping the oil change. Not changing dirty filters. Ignoring scheduled maintenance. Overlooking your tattered brake pads. Forgetting to check cars. Neglecting fluids. Opting for a Very Low-Cost Mechanic Sure, you want to save some money on repairs, and your instinct might be to go to an extremely economical auto shop or car shop. Unfortunately, there’s a reason why there are low-cost mechanics and more expensive ones — that is, the disparity in quality. You don’t want to sacrifice the welfare of your car by opting for cheap services (not to mention that doing so might lead to more repairs in the future). This doesn’t mean that you need to select the priciest of the bunch. It’s safe if you veer in the mid-range. Additionally, do your homework and check some online reviews or ask for referrals. Filling the Engine with an Incorrect Type of Oil Albeit using an incorrect type of oil won’t necessarily lead to engine failure, doing so can still harm your engine and sacrifice its performance. At any rate, it’s best to be sure what sort of oil you’re supposed to put in your engine. Skipping the Oil Change In other instances, you might decide to skip the oil change altogether. As with the previous one, this might cause your engine to eventually wear out and run less efficiently. In the end, your engine might finally break down. Not Changing Dirty Filters Not changing dirty filters can lead to serious problems in the future. For one, some of your car’s sensors might fail, which means thousands of pesos of repair. Ignoring Scheduled Maintenance A vehicle’s scheduled visit to an auto shop or car shop is already listed down in the car manual, and yet, some car owners still choose to blatantly ignore it. You shouldn’t! After all, a car manual has all the information you need to know about your car, and this knowledge might spare you from expensive repairs! Additionally, following all the instructions written in it guarantees that your vehicle will always be functioning seamlessly. Overlooking Your Tattered Brake Pads Not changing your brake pads when there’s already a sign of wear and tear can be hazardous to your safety. As you might have guessed, it can lead to some accidents that you easily could have avoided if you replaced your brake pads with new ones. Some of the most common manifestations of frayed brake pads are difficult when you’re turning a corner and a deafening, screeching sound that accompanies your car every time it comes to halt. Forgetting to Check Tires For tires, you’ll need to constantly rotate them and to check air pressure. This will help you avoid the imbalanced tread wear on your tires. Uneven tread wear can lead to myriads of issues, such as vibration when driving, irregular traction, and damage to steering and suspension parts. Most auto shops or car shops will rotate your vehicle for a fee. However, if you have a jack and jack stand, then you can perform it by yourself at the comforts of your home! As for air pressure, you can just have it checked at a nearby gas station. Lastly, air temperature also disturbs tire inflation. So even if your tires don’t have air seeping out of it, you might still need to have your tires checked, just to be sure. Neglecting Fluids These fluids are there for a reason — that is, they ensure that your vehicle will be running smoothly and efficiently. If you want to be sure about the fluids that your car will need, then your car manual is your best friend. Key Takeaway Being a car owner isn’t simple. There are tons of things that you need to know and need to do, and one of them is the necessity of regularly visiting an auto shop or a car shop. After all, you need to ensure that your vehicle is always in its prime condition. Unfortunately, there are times when these repairs aren’t really helping. On the contrary, they can be detrimental to your car. There are also instances when you might deliberately ignore certainly. In order to avoid these car repair mistakes, it’s wise that you familiarize yourself with them.

Can anyone help me with a leather seat issue, I was driving on a hot day due to the sweat on my back my seat got wrinkles or bumps is there fixable?

Hi! 🙂 This is my first post here. I have a Focus MK1 1.4L (1999) which has around 140k km, and some months ago (almost one year now) I started noticing a noise coming from the front side of the car/engine. The noise is similar to like two spinning metal plates making contact or scraping metal plates... Sometimes it is more apparent. It happens mostly when the engine speed is around 2000 RPM or higher, even at very low speeds (sometimes even as I start driving). I have included a link to a recording below. The noise I'm mentioning is very clear at 00:33. 00:41, 00:48, 01:12, 01:18 - 01:30, 02:03 - 02:20. I've been trying to find out what's causing this for months as it drives well so I thought I might fix it myself when I have time rather than taking it to a garage. Any help on what could be the problem would be greatly appreciated! Thanks 🙂 Recording: https://soundcloud.com/brian-azzopardi-488737…/focusscraping

Just had to change the pure valve because my hyundie Tiburon 2006 gt kept on dieing on me after getting gas. the pure valve was really stuck took me 3 hours to remove. Had to use a screwdriver and wd 40 to remove it after I had to go some where so left it for 8 with the battery unplugged but now it won't stay on. it will start than it will make a loud squealing sound like sound than turn off unless I keep my foot on the gas but after I let go it will shut off please help

I'm planning on buying a used 2006 MAZDA MAZDASPEED6 Grand Touring with no engine. I was wondering what kind of engines I could install that would fit comfortably and have a good amount of power. I'm newer to this kind of stuff so some feedback would be greatly appreciated!

Get low-cost Roadside coverage today with a very low-cost monthly payment only $40.00 down first and last month paid upfront. Then $20.00 per month with unlimited tows up to 100 miles per service call. Coverage begins 24 hours after payment received!!!! Click on the link https://tvcm.co/!PJU74

I have a 2000 4Runner 4 cylinder, I changed the thermostat, radiator cap, and put in new coolant. After all that stuff it still keeps getting hot. What should my next steps be in trying to fix it?

I drive a lexus rx 300 1999 SUV with 160000 miles..when it was purchased there was always a transmission sensor problem but it has driven well until recently. Last December it started to buck while in drive and this week it happened again after driving for 20 minutes. It felt so bad on the car I had it towed to the mechanic. The tow guy put the car in neutral and I picked the car back up the following day. I was told the reverse was gone but I would be able to use other gears. The mechanic also drained fuilds out and refilled. The engine runs good and I checked the transmission fluid level before pulling off. It indicated a pink color and on the cool line. When I pulled off the tires did seem to rub a little. I reached 3 blocks with no bucking before the car just stop moving. None of the gears responded. I remember hearing crackle and loose sounds on and off while driving the 3 blocks. I called for a tow truck and when he tried putting the car in neutral it did not respond. He tried going forward and the car drove backwards as well. He said my transmission locked and it will not be possible to tow. With effort we were able to tow home. Is this common?????? Did my transmission just randomly fail?? What are the indication of a failing transmission ?

Hey! I recently came across a 1958 4DR Buick Super that I'm told went through some flooding damage and would need new engine and transmission in order to run. I am fully prepared to do what it takes, I am just in need of some advice on what I should consider putting inside the classic. I don't plan on rebuilding its original engine or anything either, the more modern the better. Any other advice is much appreciated as well, thank you!

Hello, My 04 Mercury Sable needs a new PCV valve and my buddies and I need help locating it. We have watched numerous videos and looked at many photos but cant seem to find anything with the exact model . If anyone knows anything about Mercuries and where the PCV valve is located your help would be much appreciated. Thank you

Hey guys, I made a rookie mistake. I accidentally forgot I had a screw in my hand and when I went down to look under the car. My hand had popped against the front bumper releasing the screw to land right on top of my Intercooler. Upon trying to get it out I pushed it further right between the radiator and Intercooler. At this point I’m assuming it has dropped on the splash guard, but if not what risk does this impose when I’m driving. Will it be fine? Thank you for your time! the picture below is where it landed and than the arrow points to where it has gone to.

A few days ago, I took my car to a car shop nearby for an oil change. However, after a week of usage the oil is black. Is it normal for the oil to be dark after oil change? Do I need to visit a car shop to check-up and possible repair?

Last Wednesday I scratched a 1974 Cadillac DeVille in a parking lot. The left rear taillight and an area near the left rear tire were damaged. I didn't notice anything else but I was in a hurry and might have missed something (The towel was already in the window). I immediately took photos, found the owner and offered to pay for the damages. This Wednesday he handed me a bill for over $5,000, including a full all-over repaint and $3,840 in labor (That's 48 hours of labor). I'd like to get a second opinion on his car from another body shop. I thought of questioning him today but decided to post this question here first just to be sure. What do you think of that much money for this? Pictures and the invoice are attached. Thank you. Deville1.PDF DeVille2.PDF

I figured it out and can't delete it.

I own a 1992 Jeep Wrangler that I'm currently trying to fix up. A major problem is that my the gauges and lights on my dashboard don't work correctly. My MPH and RPM gauges work fine, but my gas gauge and the three gauges next to it don't. they just sit at about a 1/4 full. Also the lights on my dashboard don't turn on when my headlights are on. So like when I'm driving at night with my headlights on my dashboard is pitch black. The lights have come on randomly before, but then don't work again the next time i drive with my headlights. Can anyone tell me how to fix these problems to help me on the path to getting my car like new again? Thank you!

Alright, so I bought a 2002 Pontiac Grand Am for a really good price considering the damage it has, and I'm working on fixing it. I've read about drilling holes and using Bondo, using a hot glue gun, and some other methods, but I'm not sure what would work best for this situation. It's the rear passenger door and it's almost completely smashed in (see images). I've looked at just buying a new door completely, but I couldn't find any places online that have a complete door for sale. I also have the side-molding that goes on the door. So, what's best for this situation, Bondo? Hot Glue? Drilling a hole and pulling it out? Or buying a new door (last resort). I'm willing to put money into the car as I only payed $200 for it and everything is running smoothly and the interior and all of the exterior (with exception to the door) is perfect. Thanks to any suggestions that you may have!

I just bought a new 2000 Ford Focus ZX3 and it had some super lame monster stickers on the rear view mirror. So I took it off (just the mirror part), and scraped off the stickers. Simple enough, right? It was going well until I tried to put the mirror back onto it's ball joint. Let's just say I haven't got the mirror back on yet. This seems super easy to do but I just cannot do it. Anyone have any tips, tricks, or other methods for snapping the mirror back onto the ball joint? Thanks in advance.