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Showing results for tags 'Ford'.
Found 56 results
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Hello guys i need help today i took this remote control for central locking https://www.manua.ls/joblotron/cl-301/manual and i tried to somehow connect it to a servomotor in driver door i took the cables from it and tried connecting it but it didnt work i just dont know how exactly i need to connect it. I took a photo of the cables and i know that if you short white/purple with orange/black it opens doors and if you short yellow/black with orange/black it closes and thats all i know. For now i just connected one wire from remote c. that was supposed to go into turn signal to the white/purple cable that allows me to atleast open my car remotely which is great for now but can you help me with the cables so i can make it the good way and then i can open and even close my car ? Thanks for all replies -
What are your thoughts about this latest release from Ford? -
I have a 2006 Chevrolet HHR and the passenger back wheel is bent inwards...does anyone know how I can fix this? It looks like 1-2" inwards, no wheel damage and no subframe or lower control arm damage. I replaced the back wheels with the front ones to check if it made a difference, it didnt. It makes a weird rubbing sound when turning to the left only, not when going straight and not when turning to the right. As if the wheel was scraping metal. My steering wheel is off a bit too, 15 degrees clock wise. I installed new tie rod ends and did the front alignment. It wont allow me to add pictures over .98mb (my 1 picture is 6 mb)
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Ok gents, I have an 02 town car with 123k miles, Im the 2nd owner and have 100% of all service records back to the bill of sale. The only thing on it that isnt from Ford are the NGK plugs and ENA coils I just put on it to try and eliminate this issue. Last week I started getting a VERY noticeable miss while driving, bad enough my service engine light was flashing occasionally. The plugs and coils had never been replaced so I figured that was most likely it. The car ran perfectly for 1 day afterwards and I thought the issue was done, then the next day I had a couple misses when cold but cleared up with it warmed up, now today I have misses again all across the temp range and in all gears. It worse when the car is under more of a load, like going up hill, or when I have to slow down and then accelerate again but I can tell the car is still in a higher gear and the rpms are low. I have no CEL/SEL codes right now but I did do a Mode 6 scan and came up with some issues but I have no idea the meaning or translation of them since they are in hexdec. Ill include them with what little info I have about them in case someone has the ability to translate them. As for any other maintenance/parts in relation to the fuel system: fuel pump and filter replaced 15k miles ago with ford parts by ford. Does the ECU need to be reset after new coils are installed? Could it be that simple? Any suggestions would be appreciated Mode 6 info: TID: 2B CID: 00 MIN: 0x8A00 Val: 0x00 Max: - Phase 4 Vapor generation maximum absolute pressure rise and max threshold TID: 2A CID: 00 Min 0x8700 Val: 0x00 Max: - Phase 4 Vapor generation maximum change in pressure and max threshold TID: 55 CID: 00 Min - Val: 0x2F1 Max: 0x28F Highest emission-threshold misfire and emission threshold misfire rate (updated when DTC set or clears) TID: 56 CID: 00 Min - Val: 0x4FFF Max: 0xFA0 Cylinder events tested and number of events required for a 1000 rev test
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Can I have your views since im planning to buy a SUV and there loads of stuff to choose from and im confused😭 List of my prospect: Ford escape Nissan rouge/murano Jeep compact Kia sportage Dodge journey or something that you may recomment.
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Hey guys, I was wondering if I can get feedback on choosing a turbocharger kit for my Ford 390 6.4 Liter V8 engine. It's hard finding a turbo for such an old engine too. So if you can, drop any suggestions on any kind of turbo kit for this engine. Any help would be appreciated.
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Good morning, I have a 2013 Ford Explorer 2WD 3.5L V6 with about 150k miles on it. It is currently reading OBDII codes P0430 and P0054 It is driving fine, no symptoms, other than the engine light being on. No loss of power or change in milage. What should I try first?
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Do you think that the car community/hooning culture is over represented in accident statistics? Why? What would you say in defense? What is more prevalent and why do you think we hear about it less? Im writing a research paper and would really appreciate some input!
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Hello! I'm 17 years old, and I'm saving up for my first car. I'm choosing between the Mazda 6, Kia Optima, and Ford fusion. I just CAN'T choose one. Please help! Thanks ":)
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I'm wanting to get a Ford Ranger (2008 XLT is ideal) and do an engine swap (small block 350) and a transmission swap for an ALL WHEEL drive; not 4 wheel drive. Is this possible and is so what do y'all recommend? Trying to keep this as low budget as possible while still being somewhat reliable.
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I NEED THESE ANSWERS NOW. Basically posted this on fb market going for 500 already, is this reasonable to scrap? considering the only known problem is the engine/master cylinder and the radiator and all 4 tires are new. -
Hey there everyone. How's this for my first post. I've been having trouble with my partner's 1997 ford laser. We had completed a head unit swap over with no issues, and all had worked fine. A little while later we had changed the battery out and something must have surged as we had blown the main 100amp fuse in the engine compartment. No worries, we replaced it and everything was fine.... but not the radio, clock, or interior lights. Now I understand checking fuses if the very first thing you do. So I did just that. I had checked every single fuse from the engine compartment, to the drivers kick panel, and even inline fuses under the dash all with the help of a multimeter. Every fuse I had checked though was perfectly fine and was putting out the 12 volts. Yet for some reason, they don't want to work. As for the radio, it's only the yellow 12 volt constant wire not receiving any power. As for the clock and interior lights... not too sure as to why they're not working. I'm not too bad with these sorts of things. But after going over every single fuse, forum, owner's manual, and everything else you could imagine... I'm finally stuck. If there's anything obvious I may have missed or someone who has had a similar issue, please let me know so I can get this damn thing off my mind once and for all. If the above is not as descriptive or in-depth enough, I'm more than happy to provide either a photo or video to help make things a little easier. Many thanks in advance guys, really appreciate anyone going to the effort to help us out. Cheers, -Michael 😁
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Hi! 🙂 This is my first post here. I have a Focus MK1 1.4L (1999) which has around 140k km, and some months ago (almost one year now) I started noticing a noise coming from the front side of the car/engine. The noise is similar to like two spinning metal plates making contact or scraping metal plates... Sometimes it is more apparent. It happens mostly when the engine speed is around 2000 RPM or higher, even at very low speeds (sometimes even as I start driving). I have included a link to a recording below. The noise I'm mentioning is very clear at 00:33. 00:41, 00:48, 01:12, 01:18 - 01:30, 02:03 - 02:20. I've been trying to find out what's causing this for months as it drives well so I thought I might fix it myself when I have time rather than taking it to a garage. Any help on what could be the problem would be greatly appreciated! Thanks 🙂 Recording: https://soundcloud.com/brian-azzopardi-488737…/focusscraping -
2007 Lincoln MKX radiator fans not working. Have checked every thing. New Temp Sensor, New Fan assembly, New Thermostat, fuses good, checked continuity and still not working. Not even when the ac is on. I'm lost.
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So when driving all day my car will stop going. It will start and shift but wont move or it will strain. After letting it cool it will run properly until it gets warm enough. The gauge doesnt move. Sidenote: Is that PCV Line supposed to have a bolt like that.
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Should you need to see a very aggressive item, here comes the Nissan GT-R vs the Ford Mustang comparison which will of some help to car customers. Now let’s check out which one is the better of two performance cars. In terms of exterior, the GT-R is vastly different than the Mustang. The Nissan GT-R is a modern marvel of engineering while the model Ford Mustang is a powerful nod to the classic muscle cars of the 60’s. Furthermore, the GT-R possesses a sense of a monster track car and the Mustang, while also capable on the track, draws more on the nostalgia of the muscle car scene. As regards interior and convenience, there are some main differences. Specifically, the Nissan GT-R has a smaller boot space than the Mustang despite its shorter length. Yet both of these vehicles have limited room for rear passengers. Two models all have interior features in common, such as cruise control, leather upholstery, Dual Zone Automatic Climate Control and Steering Wheel Audio Control. However, the GT-R seems superior when sporting more features in entertainment system, together with Voice Recognition. Meanwhile, the Mustang acquires 12 speakers inside. About performance, the GT-R, even the lower variant, is much more powerful than the Mustang 5.0. While the Ford Mustang has more cylinders and a larger displacement, the GT-R NISMO’s twin-turbo V6 makes 608 horsepower. In addition, the GT-R NISMO is an insanely advanced and almost perfect all-wheel-drive system that uses two driveshafts and a series of electronic sensors and hydraulically actuated clutches. So to make it clearer in fuller information, go for Nissan GT-R vs Ford Mustang comparison right in Philkotse if you take interest! -
Hello! My parents are looking for a car they can flat tow behind their RV. We went out yesterday and drove a few different vehicles and have it narrowed down to the Jeep Wrangler or Cherokee, Ford Ranger or Chevy Colorado. My dad and I really liked the Wrangler and my mom is undecided. We know Jeep tends to have a bad rap for reliability, but I'm just wondering if it's really something to be concerned about and get some input/suggestions on what people like and have heard or experienced with any of these cars. We are wanting a smaller truck or SUV. We looked at 2020's but are open to lightly used ones as well, but nothing older than about 2017. Any advice or thoughts would be greatly appreciated and if I forgot any info, just ask and I'll do my best to provide the answers! Lol Thank you!
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I have a Ford Ranger (T6 style) which has just developed a clicking noise whenever I turn to the left. The sound is identical and consistent regardless of speed. It clicks (or pops) about 4 times when making a 90 degree turn to the left at an intersection. The same clicking noise is made when the car is completely stationary and I turn the wheel to the left. When turning to the right, it makes a faint scraping noise instead, like a very soft metal on metal. This just started a week ago. It sounds very much like the sound is coming from the steering column, not from outside the car. I can also feel a very, very slight vibration in the wheel when it pops turning left. I will take this into the dealer to get it checked, but I am in Thailand, and it is dangerous to take your car to a dealer for service if you do not already know what is wrong with it. I have had to have my car towed out of a dealership before that was running when I brought it in, after they disassembled my perfectly good engine and tried to extort money to fix it. I was advised by a mechanic after that to always get an independent of assesment of what is wrong with your car and make sure the dealer knows you know the real problem before allowing them to fix it. To say they should not be trusted is an understatement. A friend suggested it might be the "clock spring", but I will admit I know very little about modern car design. When I grew up steering columns were simple and didn't have such things. The truck has about 55,000 miles/92,000 kms and is 4 years old. Can anyone offer any advice on what this might be? It still drives fine, but I would rather get this repaired now in case it is something that could get worse in the future. Thanks for any advice. -
Привет любителям автомобилей! Хочу поделиться с вами своим хобби. Создаю реалистичные красивые рисунки автомобилей. Если хотите, я могу создать для вас индивидуальный чертеж автомобиля.
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Hello members of Car Forums! This is my first time posting on this forum so please do forgive me if I sound too new. This isn't my first car purchase, but it's the first time I really feel connected with the process and involved, so I wanted to make sure I came to the right place. I'm looking to buy a used car with about a 8,000 max budget and today I ran into something that I wanted to ask some knowledgeable people about. A used dealership (a pretty well respected and legit one) near me got in a pair of 2011 Ford Fusion Hybrids today for $8500 each. They are in immaculate condition inside, have brand new looking tires, and only have about 40,000 on the odometer. The cars came from a fleet so they are both equipped the same. The owner of the lot said he only has them priced where he does due to the fact that they both definitely have some hail damage. This doesn't bother me, as I know it can positively effect price for the buyer without much of a downside beside aesthetics. I was wondering what you all think about even looking at an 8 year old hybrid car. I test drove one of the two and it seemed to be quite the exquisite experience. Everything was perfect, worked perfectly, sounded perfectly...(there was barely any sound at all) I know batteries are a concern as well as the CVT but they really do seem to be nice cars. Any opinions, thoughts, or concerns?
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Hi all, I have an 2005 Mk2 Focus 1.6 petrol Ti-VCT which has the electronically controlled thermostat. I am struggling with overheating issues, I wonder if anyone has any good tips After seeing the typical symptoms (pressure cap opens after it can't take it anymore and coolant is released through the cap the rest boils) I have found that the thermostat does not open. There is no or barely any circulation through the radiator. The dashboard gauge inside raises to 75°C normally, but stays there even if temperatures are way above 100°C Just to cross out other possibilities: - Using a garden hose I flushed all lines through the engine, the hoses, the radiator, there is no blockage in the system - the water pump is in good condition and creates the require head pressure - de-airing valve seem to be working fine - thermostat has been replaced, same symptoms with the new one - coolant thermal sensor (on the other side of the engine) replaced, same symptoms with the new one - cylinder head is sound, not cracked (checked by mechanic + coolant is clear) - Expansion tank cap replaced So all I have left to assume is that the thermostat doesn't get the electronic control signal to open. This type of thermostat doesn't open just by itself if dipped in boiling water(tested). I followed the wires from the thermostat housing to the central box where a bunch of wires go and found no physical injury. I checked all the fuses (both fuse boxes) which I imagined might have a role in temperature or engine control, all sound. Is there anything I can do to find out more? Is there any way to fix this if the fault is in the central electronics? If everything else fails, does anyone have experience with using a conventional thermostat instead? It looks like the housing matches, anyone knows if it really does? Can it cause a problem in engine control if thermostat wires are not connected (as there is nowhere to connect them)? Temperatures is still a problem, the best conventional thermostat I could find opens at 92 °C while the original opens at 98 °C. It still might be okay I guess, if 92 is measured before the engine and 98 is originally measured after the engine at the thermal sensor, then close enough I assume. Any comments, tips appreciated! -
Hello my name is Andrew Song. I work for TYC Genera, a manufacturer of automotive aftermarket parts. I am actively looking for owner's of a 2015-2017 Ford Focus 1.0L Turbo Engine to let me due fitment test for this vehicle and will be offering compensation. Please message me directly for more details if you own this vehicle and are interested. Thank you!
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55 Units Of The Ford Mustang Bullitt Headed For South Africa All Already Spoken For Last year we received word that South Africa will be getting a few of the 50th-anniversary tribute Ford Mustangs of the iconic car that featured in the movie “Bullitt”. Now, we have confirmation of the exact numbers that will be reaching our South African shores. SA will be getting 55 units of the Mustang Bullitt. As you would probably expect, all 55 have been spoken for so expect to see a movie icon on a street near you. What does this special American pony cost? Owners of these cars parted with just over 1 million South African Rands Read The Full topic
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Cars - When thinking about high-performance pickup cars, we do not usually compare them to sports cars. The latter has the ability to cut the tracks at very high speeds. The high performance of pickup is the ability to carry and pull heavy weights. F-150 Raptor 2019, we will find it a unique exception, as its high performance can be measured in the same way sports cars, whether in paved, or rugged roads Read More Visit : https://www.autospayback.com
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My 2010 Ford Focus oil temperature gauge started reading hot this evening. It is smoking. Once we leave it off for 10 minutes it’ll go back to normal but after 5 minutes it goes back to hot. We found the coolant was out so we tried that and it got hotter faster that way. What could the problem possibly be?
