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Found 9 results

  1. Hi! Wondering if you can help! Mazda 3 1.6L (diesel) year 2009. 240000 kilometers. Battry indicator on dashboard came up when one morning I was gonna use the car. It had gotten colder (first cold night - below zero celcius) so was thinking battery would be at fault but I got this battery only a year ago! The battery seems ok. 12.7 voltage (could be better) when car is turned off and starts the car without any problems. When starting car the voltagemeter shows 14.1v for almost a minute, then drops to 13.2-13.3 and stays there most of the time, however sometimes during driving it drops to 12 and down below 12 voltage then after less than a minute it goes back to 13.3v. Hooking car up and running ForScan, I get: ===PCM DTC P1632-64=== Code: P1632 - Smart alternator output circuit Based on this information, can source of failure be narrowd down or can it still be problems with wires etc? Thanks!
  2. I have a 2004 grand cherokee Limited4.7L v8, I just recently bought this car off Craigslist, and it’s giving me hell! My break light and Abs light come on and off, usually when I rev the engine, and when I start the car some loud noises come from the sound system, however, the lights do not show on the radio. I took it into auto zone to get the alternator check and they told me that the vultage regulator is providing too much load on the battery. Could this be the answer to why I’m getting warning lights and sound problems? The odometer keeps disappearing as well. Its giving the batter 17.5v
  3. Hello, My car got this vibrating grinding sound near alternator belt area. I was wondering is the alternator up the lorry. It is getting irritating noiser each day. I just went to a mechanic he use a long screwdriver and listen at the holder and told me alternator bearing and stator maybe worn up and he quoted me around $200. He told me alternator as it is out of stock. Anyone can recommend workshops? I'm using the alternator similar to toyota rush. Any good advices Thanks in advance About Me: I have worked with multiple firms You can check Web builder software videos, one of my work.
  4. Hiya, I have a 2003 (03 plate) VW Golf Match 1.6 16V. I think i have a problem with the Battery or Alternator. The car had been sat doing nothing for 2 days, the remote locking and dashboard were fine as was the switching on of the battery as i turned the key. However, as soon as i tried turning on the engine the dash reset and car seriously struggled to turn on. It did just about manage to but only by a hair. I didn't leave any lights or electronics on, i did that once ages ago over just the one night and completely killed it, even the locking. What confuses me the most is i could turn the engine off and straight back on again afterwards. One would assume (not being mechanically minded whatsoever) that if a nearly dead battery only just managed to turn a car on, it wouldnt be able to do it again almost straight away. When my car is on and running there isn't a problem which tells me the alternator is ok and there are no warning lights on. If the car is sat for most of the day while im at work or over one night then it's ok starting. But leaving for a whole day and night it struggles again. Can someone advise me on this please? I do apologise i tend to go on abit. Thanks in advance, Mark
  5. I have a 2006 Ford Mustang V6 and I have blown two alternators over the course of eight months. Each time I took it to a Ford dealer and used Ford genuine parts. The battery is fine. When the alternator goes I have a cascade failure of all of the electrical system and I need to get towed into the shop. Why are my alternators burning out?
  6. 2006 Lincoln Zephyr 3.0L v6, FWD Stock radio, no navigation 61000K miles I just bought the car, almost positive it has the factory alternator never been changed. I had put in: 2 CVR-12 Kickers, power acoustik 1800w 2 channel Class A/B amp, no power capacitor as I experienced with my old car that it made the alternator worst. So this time instead of installing it myself I took it to best buy, bought my own wire kit (power acoustic 4GA) even tho the wire kid says 4 gauge, the guy said its too slim, not really a 4ga, he cant put a warranty on it, but he will install it. So I told him to do so. Now today I have noticed a clicking like sound coming from the engine, sounds like maybe one of the pulleys. Don't want to blow the alternator out, or have any snapped belts. Anyone had this problem?? Or how can I tell how many amps ismy alternator?? What kind of alternator do I need? Or is it all fine and I'm over reacting??
  7. I NEED HELP FAST, PLEASE GIVE ME YOUR IMPUT Okay so I've had this problem for about 2 weeks or so, I own a 2006 Lincoln zephyr, it is a v6, 3.0L, with FWD. After switching the back breaks on my car(new pads, new rotors), i bought 2 used tires, during the install the guy toldme I have abent rim and he will put it in the back so my wheel doesn't shake, after I left the shop I noticed intense vibration on the driver side plus a loud noise as if the tire was loose hitting something and rubbing agains something, went back got it put in the back. I still hear the sound just quiet and in the back, car still vibrates. The car vibrates a little(feeling it when I put my feet on the ground not the pedals) at all time, vibration is sort of under the seat and by the pedals. The car jerks/bumps at really slow speeds (0-15mph) and when I break, but only when I slow down or lightly press the break pedal. When pressed hard it doesn't do that. Every time I start my car it's not that bad but then it gets worst. I know I need my breaks bleeded but could that be the problem?? Or what can it be? This has probably nothing to do with it, but I did get subs put in the car recently, and I have noticed a clicking sound comin from the engine. Sounds like maybe one of the valves.
  8. Gday having a problem with my car not charging the battery i can just start the car but as soon as i turn it off I am unable to turn it back un unless if I jumpstart it. I had Road Side Assist come over and they tested the voltage of the alternator and the battery, the battery outputs 1VT and the alternator outputs 44VT I was told that these is something using alot of power and this will need to be fixed by a mechanic, mechanics in my area are rip offs and I will like to see if I can address this problem without some shifty mechanic trying to charge me for a new alternator or something. When Road Side Assist left I asked him to keep the motor running and I noticed I had the air con on so I think maybe this is the reason why the alternator had a high output. I took the car out for a drive for 40 min to try and charge the battery but when I got home and turned the car off the motor would not start when I turned its back on but all other electronics were working (radio, headlines ect) I work a lot so it will be a while before I get the time to get this car relooked at so this post is just to give me some piece of mind until then. These problems started when I left the headlights on overnight so that drained the battery. Now bear with me my knowledge about battery’s is rusty, my battery is new (under 1 year old) and the fluid levels are fine. I think that leaving the headlights on just completely drained the battery and it needs to be recharged at a battery recharge centre (can’t be recharged by driving it) , and the reason why the alternator was outputting a high voltage was because I had the Air con on when Road Side Assist was testing the voltage levels. So what do you think? Should it just be a simple job of charging the battery? Or Is there a problem with the alternator? I am thinking if could just be a simple unconnected wire, a lose alternator belt or maybe something rusted (I’m also having problems with a leaking power steering pump, maybe the fluid rusted something on the alternator) Oh and if it helps my car is blue.
  9. Hello, im new to the automotive scene and this is my first car. Its a 93 Nissan Pathfinder 5spd. So far my starter has quit, i replaced it and everything was fine. Next my alternator goes, So i installed a new one. But now when i re-connected my wires to the positive and negative terminal it started sparking and smoking. I have clip fusible links that fried from my positive cable, so i replaced those. But it still is sparking/smoking. I cannot figure out the problem. I also replaced my main and check relay and checked all my fuses. I kno that it could be a short somewhere in the electrical, but my problem is i dont know where. It all was working fine untill i did the alternator. If you could please help that would be great!
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