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Hi! Wondering if you can help! Mazda 3 1.6L (diesel) year 2009. 240000 kilometers. Battry indicator on dashboard came up when one morning I was gonna use the car. It had gotten colder (first cold night - below zero celcius) so was thinking battery would be at fault but I got this battery only a year ago! The battery seems ok. 12.7 voltage (could be better) when car is turned off and starts the car without any problems. When starting car the voltagemeter shows 14.1v for almost a minute, then drops to 13.2-13.3 and stays there most of the time, however sometimes during driving it drops to 12 and down below 12 voltage then after less than a minute it goes back to 13.3v. Hooking car up and running ForScan, I get: ===PCM DTC P1632-64=== Code: P1632 - Smart alternator output circuit Based on this information, can source of failure be narrowd down or can it still be problems with wires etc? Thanks!

Recently I got a 2006 Nissan 350z (Enthusiast trim) with 250,000 miles (mostly highway). The previous owner was quite the stoner, judging by what we found in the various interior compartments during its first detail. After checking around the car, I noticed that the previous owner, let's call him Chad, had installed an aftermarket audio system and subwoofer. Great right? Who doesn't love getting a little extra in their investments? Well, let's just say that Chad was probably high as a kite when he installed this system. The first thing we noticed was that the subwoofer was set to take all frequencies of audio, not just the low ones. In case you didn't know, subwoofers are specifically designed to handle and play the lower sounds in your music. Alright, we said, maybe that was a little dumb but it isn't a huge deal and we can just fix it real quick. Well, as I was finishing up the installation of my first mod (a CAI) we noticed that something looked a little off by the battery. The wiring for the audio system, to be exact. When we took a look at the wires we found a fuse on the negative wire and absolutely nothing on the positive wire. Anyone who has basic electrical knowledge would know just how wrong that is. I was shocked to find out that I had been driving around with such a dangerous fire hazard under my hood. If something had gone wrong with the wiring there would have been absolutely nothing to prevent my car from bursting into flames. I wish I had taken a picture! Of course, we fixed it and all is right now, but man that was something...

I am trying to jump start a subaru impreza with a 2015 kia optima. The subaru has been sitting for at least a month or so. Ive had the cars connected for at least a half an hour now and still can't get the subaru to turn over. It is only about 30 degrees out but Ive been able to get it charged enough to put the heat on and get all of the dashboard lights on but it still wont start. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

BMW F chassis Battery Replacement Steps There is a battery management module in engine system of BMW F chassis, if it monitor that battery has been serious aged or damaged, a DTC would be generated in engine system, you can only clear this code after replacing battery and "record" it. I have some pics when carried out the battery replacement and configuration, the tool I used is a Topdon Artipad. Here are my steps: 1. Manual ->vehicle brand->chassis->Engine,ECM->DME/DDE 2.Special function->battery->record replace battery 3. Tap on record replace battery, if you replace the same type and capacity, choose "same capacity", wait for 20s, it would prompt battery replacement was successfully recorded in DME/DDE. If you replace different capacity, choose "higher/lower capacity", and the same steps if you replace different battery type(chemistry), just choose the correct one, like AGM or lead acid, but it requires reprogram after replacing battery, BMW F chassis doesn't supported yet. After the record was done, clear DTC.If the DTC can't be cleared, the ECM-DDE/DME info and shows not supported. Anyway, it is quite simple to do the configuration/matching after replacing battery, I hope you will find this instruction helpful.

I recognize I am new with working on cars but I have done research and I could not figure it out. When I disconnect or reconnect my negative terminal on my car battery, It always sparks. I feel like there is something I am missing and it makes me nervous to work on anything electrical in my car. Can anybody help me?

Overhauling and keeping up an autos battery ought to be a piece of a standard vehicle support regiment to keep the battery executing as it should. Getting in the vehicle and turning the start before anything else and nothing occurs, isn't the most ideal approach to begin the day. Routinely overhauling and keeping up the battery will limit battery disappointment. To know more click here..

Hello! I have a Jeep Cherokee 2015 that has an auto stop start that hasn't been working. It stopped working a couple weeks after I got it and I just realized the battery was rubbish and had it replaced. The day it was replaced the auto stop/start worked fine. The day after it has not. It keeps saying "Stop/Start not ready. Battery charging" Any advice would be great, thank you!

2020 Kia Niro Hybrid launched in Korea this March. With battery and electric could this SUV? crossover? hatchback? be the most practical SUV we can find today? Let’s check what has changed inside & out and test drive it. 2020 Kia Niro Hybrid 4,355x1,805x1,545x2,700mm 171.5x71.1x60.8x106.3 in. 1.6gdi Hybrid Total: 141hp 1.6 Gdi - 105hp @ 5,700 | 32kw electric motor - 43.5hp 6 speed DCT Competition: Hyundai Ioniq, Toyota Prius https://youtu.be/EqR5UNprPAo

I figured it out and can't delete it.

Hiya, I have a 2003 (03 plate) VW Golf Match 1.6 16V. I think i have a problem with the Battery or Alternator. The car had been sat doing nothing for 2 days, the remote locking and dashboard were fine as was the switching on of the battery as i turned the key. However, as soon as i tried turning on the engine the dash reset and car seriously struggled to turn on. It did just about manage to but only by a hair. I didn't leave any lights or electronics on, i did that once ages ago over just the one night and completely killed it, even the locking. What confuses me the most is i could turn the engine off and straight back on again afterwards. One would assume (not being mechanically minded whatsoever) that if a nearly dead battery only just managed to turn a car on, it wouldnt be able to do it again almost straight away. When my car is on and running there isn't a problem which tells me the alternator is ok and there are no warning lights on. If the car is sat for most of the day while im at work or over one night then it's ok starting. But leaving for a whole day and night it struggles again. Can someone advise me on this please? I do apologise i tend to go on abit. Thanks in advance, Mark

For the past 2 years during the winter (especially when temps. plummet to -15 and colder) my hubby has decided to not plug our jeep in at night or use a block heater. Each morning our vehicle doesn't start and he has to use a battery charger. Today he just bought a new battery. His other battery was only 2 years old. He also has decided the Jeep doesn't need to idle even for a few minutes after a cold night without being plugged in. One day the jeep stalled in the middle of the road, luckily he was in front of our house. Is it possible to damage the Jeep by driving it without an idle? For some reason this perplexes me as I'm wondering if old age has crept up on me and I don't know about vehicle winter maintenance anymore or is he suffering from a memory lapse? Advice and suggestions will be helpful to solve this discussion in my household.

For the past 6 or so years I have gone through 3 car batteries. I started to think something else was going on with the car because the batteries should not be dying that quickly. I started looking into the electrical system for answers. Recently I have found that my car is consistently and periodically going from .032 amps to 1.8 amps when the car is completely off with no circuit load. I have heard from people and the internet that when the car is completely off with nothing acting as a load, then the current through the system should be no more than 50 mA. I actually just signed up for this site because I can't find any solution online to this problem. I am going to try and upload a video so it can better depict the ammeters story because I bet I am confusing. Drill me with questions so we can get this problem resolved because I believe that the current draw(overnight) and recharging due to running the car is actually shortening the battery life significantly. Almost forgot I have a 2003 chevy impala 3.8 Litter engine. I know the next step will be to remove the fuses one by one and watch the current to see when it drops but the thing is the door switches that disarm the startup procedure is built into the door. I am hoping someone with a little more car experience will be able to tell me without this diagnostic procedure what is actually going on. I could not get a video but here is a picture as to what is happening. The current through the battery is periodically switching between these 2 values. the 1.8 amp reading will measure for about 20 seconds and then fall down to the .038 reading which lasts about 7 seconds.

Hi everyone! I have a 1992 Nissan Sentra that I'm borrowing from a friend while my car is getting worked on. I'm not used to the manual lights so I forgot to turn them off when I went to work, and I came back to a dead car. I tried jumping it (unsuccessfully) and afterward I noticed a round, small, red light blinking to the left of the steering wheel and also my external hazard lights starting dimly blinking. The light also made a faint clicking noise when blinking, but only when all of the doors were closed. After this starting happening I tried to start the car again and the automatic seatbelts started to REALLY SLOWLY move back to their normal position, and some of the dashboard lights were coming on, but very dimly as well. Another thing I noticed was that when I first tried starting the car when jumping it was that it made the tell-tale clicking noise like the battery was dead, but after the red/hazard lights starting blinking it no longer made the clicking noise. I'm stumped! My friend who owns the car is stumped. We just don't know what to do and would really appreciate any information or help. Thanks!

Gday having a problem with my car not charging the battery i can just start the car but as soon as i turn it off I am unable to turn it back un unless if I jumpstart it. I had Road Side Assist come over and they tested the voltage of the alternator and the battery, the battery outputs 1VT and the alternator outputs 44VT I was told that these is something using alot of power and this will need to be fixed by a mechanic, mechanics in my area are rip offs and I will like to see if I can address this problem without some shifty mechanic trying to charge me for a new alternator or something. When Road Side Assist left I asked him to keep the motor running and I noticed I had the air con on so I think maybe this is the reason why the alternator had a high output. I took the car out for a drive for 40 min to try and charge the battery but when I got home and turned the car off the motor would not start when I turned its back on but all other electronics were working (radio, headlines ect) I work a lot so it will be a while before I get the time to get this car relooked at so this post is just to give me some piece of mind until then. These problems started when I left the headlights on overnight so that drained the battery. Now bear with me my knowledge about battery’s is rusty, my battery is new (under 1 year old) and the fluid levels are fine. I think that leaving the headlights on just completely drained the battery and it needs to be recharged at a battery recharge centre (can’t be recharged by driving it) , and the reason why the alternator was outputting a high voltage was because I had the Air con on when Road Side Assist was testing the voltage levels. So what do you think? Should it just be a simple job of charging the battery? Or Is there a problem with the alternator? I am thinking if could just be a simple unconnected wire, a lose alternator belt or maybe something rusted (I’m also having problems with a leaking power steering pump, maybe the fluid rusted something on the alternator) Oh and if it helps my car is blue.

Hello, im new to the automotive scene and this is my first car. Its a 93 Nissan Pathfinder 5spd. So far my starter has quit, i replaced it and everything was fine. Next my alternator goes, So i installed a new one. But now when i re-connected my wires to the positive and negative terminal it started sparking and smoking. I have clip fusible links that fried from my positive cable, so i replaced those. But it still is sparking/smoking. I cannot figure out the problem. I also replaced my main and check relay and checked all my fuses. I kno that it could be a short somewhere in the electrical, but my problem is i dont know where. It all was working fine untill i did the alternator. If you could please help that would be great!