Ghost

The torque converter is just a fluid filled clutch that allows slip depending on your engines RPM's (which depends on the pitch or AKA angle of the fins inside) and the valve body actually does the shifting because it's the final step, it routes the fluid to the correct band or clutch pack which causes your shift. without the electronics the tranny wouldn't know when to shift, you would be stuck in one gear 1st or limp home mode as many techs call it, its what the tranny defaults to if there is ever a problem. Oh WOW that dosent happen very much

the headlights are just aftermarket... not grafted on not the original but same car

your TPS signal goes to your ECU which than also goes to your transmission so it knows when to shift (Throttle pressure (from the TPS) exceeds governor pressure (road speed) = upshift and vise versa for a down shift)

have you tried to rotate the tires

You usually do have to take the whole dash apart, but before you do that find out about where the core sits on the firewall and try and find a alternative route.... Sometime you get lucky and find just a panel that needs to come out. But taking the dash apart doesn't take very long and guaranteed you'll have extra bolts to add to your collection

have you by chance noticed the fuel level when your Viva stalls? did you just fill up, half tank, 1/4 tank? does it happen mostly on the highway or in town?

If your in doubt, jack up the car grab hold of the top and bottom of the wheel and try and rock it in and out... if it moves wheel bearing's bad if not your in the clear The part your describing sounds like the Sway Bar Link AKA Stabilizer Link... It's not 100% necessary, in order to drive but your car will handle like crap. i personally don't think it would cause your car to wobble, but I've been proved wrong before. And you should get it replaced... they are cheap

If the rotors are warped it would cause a wobble while applying the brakes, if its warped really bad than a constant shake would be felt during driving and even worst while braking Another common problem with taurus's is that a front axle will crack and cause a vibration also

i would try unplugging the MAF sensor... if it stays running, problem solved if it was the crank sensor the car may start sometimes and not others (computer dosent know when to fire the spark plug). the times it does start your just getting lucky

if the car pulls in any direction when you apply the brakes than one of your calipers is hanging up. Did the mechanics check you tie-rod ends or anything suspension/ steering related? if not you might want to have them checked

WOW Mr. technical yeah that's basically what I said... yup

What do you mean it grinds? it grinds while cranking? and when you say the cra won't turn over do you mean it won't start, or won't crank?

Should depend on the spouses driving record, but it usually goes up a little, or at least it did when mommy and daddy got married... yea thats right i said mommy and daddy

the cheap code readers usually one show you the active codes for the engine only if i remember correctly, it might show you stored codes... but if your tranny's ecu is throwing a code it will light up the MIL light but when you plug in you won't get a code because the code reader dosent read tranny codes. best bet is to take it to a chevy dealership and have them plug in the Genesis II... that will read any and all codes stored and active in your ECU(s), or atleast it did when i was playing around with the Genesis a couple of years back.

Often with burnt cd's it depends on the encoding they used for the disk cd-r cd+r I don't know which one it is but 1 of them is suppose to play in almost any thing while the other one is hit and miss, so try switching cd types

Hiding under a bomb shelter busy busy busy... school and work

Wait, hold up, I'm a MOD?!?! Who made the mistake of doing such a silly thing... I'm just the village idiot Ahh i was going off of memory... I never once claimed to know what i was talking about...

HAHA jeez thanks, just been really busy and all... going to work full time and going back to school full time... just had some extra time on my hands and remembered an old website i used to visit

First guess would be a short in the wires for the brake lights and turn signal

All right first off your going to gave to decide if you want in dash gauges or mountable gauges... Mounting gauges is going to be easier to install because you can drill a couple of holes in your dash and run a couple of wires and your done. While in dash gauges are going to be more difficult because you have to do custom modding to make them fit and it's a pain in the ass to get them installed but in my personal opinion it looks cleaner (Wires are hidden better, nice clean look, blah blah blah). than comes another choice what kind of gauge do you want... Mechanical, Electric or Digital. electric looks like a(n) mechanical gauge but instead of having to run wires to a sender you can usually just tap into a wire going to your ECU, while a digital gives a digital readout Ok so if you've got that much figured out than you have to decide what kind of gauge you want (what do you want to keep an eye on) and a good list of gauges are as follows Air / Fuel Ratio, Narrowband = Narrowband basically the same thing as your stock O2 sensor with a gauge Air / Fuel Ratio, Wideband = Wideband is a more precise reading of you A/F Ratio big difference in price Ammeter = Current output of your alternator Amp Temperature = I'm not sure exactly but I think it if you have a stereo installed with a aftermarket amp this will keep the temp in check Blower Pressure = a boost gauge for superchargers Boost = another boost gauge, this one for turbos Brake Pressure = measures how much brake pressure is in the line (how hard your hitting the brakes) Clock = really? Cylinder Head Temperature = displays the current temp of your cylinder head, more important in drag racing when head temp could cause an issue Diesel Fuel Rail Pressure = Fuel pressure at the rail Diesel HPOP Pressure = High Pressure Oil Pump pressure gauge Differential Temp = temperature in the diff Digital Pro Shift System = for ricers who don't know when to shit... hey this tell you! Exhaust Gas Temperature = more important for turbo application, says who hot your EGT's are, same thing as a pyrometer if im not mistaken Fuel Level = says how much fuel is in you tank / fuel cell Fuel Pressure = gauge for measuring fuel pressure (gas) Hour Meter = displays how many hours you've had the vehicle turned on... not really important in my opinion Intake Temperature = shows the current temp of your intake manifold... colder is better Nitrous Pressure = could be either bottle pressure or line pressure take your pick Oil Pressure = current pressure of your oil Oil Temperature = current temp of your oil Pyrometer = measure temperature... I think Quad Gauge = 4 gauges in 1, many different arrays to chose from, space saving Speedometer = shows how fast your going Tach Speedo Combo = Tachometer and speedometer in 1, displays current RPM's and how fast you going, space saver Tachometer = current engine RPM's Tire Pressure = really? Transmission Temperature = tranny's temp Vacuum = usually intake manifold vaccum... a glorified MAP sensor Vacuum / Boost = how much boost you pushing Voltmeter = battery voltage Water Pressure = pressure of the antifreeze Water Temperature = temperature of the antifreeze for the most part the names of the gauges are self explanatory and if i made a mistake in the description... oh well

bind in the bore?

but if you just replaced the clutch and got a half assed decent kit it should have came with a new pilot bushing/ bearing, throw out bearing and you would have had the flywheel resurfaced, but your not really going to know the cause of your chatter until you pull it out on have a look. to better determine if it is your flywheel have you been dumping your clutch or letting it slip excessively? and when you pulled the tranny the first time was your rear main leaking?

One of the best things you can do to a supercharger is to put on a smaller pulley on the supercharger so that way it changes you underdrive ratio and will cause your supercharger to spin faster hence more boost

return of the dead i guess and i post websites not as advertising but as information to people who want access to the imformation instead of having to post and repost the same thing.. ya kno

ahhh ive been hiding under a very large rock.. lol naa ive been working a full time job as a semi trailor mechanic and going to school full time so i havent had a lot of free time