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mnunes810

'99 Ranger vs. '95 Camry

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The most recent Ranger in the UK is horrible though! Looks like it has had a bad facelift...

 

2010_Ford_Ranger_Euro.jpg

 

They are horrible cars anyway - all these trucks are. Navara, L200, Mazda B series etc. The only reason you would have one is if you needed it for work reasons.

 

Keep the Camry, sell the Ranger

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1999 Ford Ranger XLT-

Sport Package, Step-side, Single Cab

2wd, 2.5L 4cyl/ Auto Transmission

172,000 mi

 

This Ranger is NOT a Mazda. In fact, nothing on it is Mazda. the mazda B series of this year was a Ford ranger, built on the Ford assembly line and badged as a Mazda, but it was all Ford. The 2.5 liter was a larger version of the old SOHC 2.3 that Ford has had since the Pinto and Capri days of the '70s, and is a rugged engine that will last hundreds of thousands of miles. And so long as you keep the rust away, the body will last forever, too. My dad's old Ranger went 350k miles before he sold it. My own '96 Ranger Splash was comfortable and reliable teh entire time I owned it, and woudn't mind having another one just like it.

 

Your XLT is this body:

 

12876365.jpg

 

 

Very similar to my own '96 Ranger Splash:

 

splash04.jpg

 

splash_rex.jpg

Edited by Chris V.

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Keep the Toyota, They will last forever.

Myth.

 

splash_rex.jpg

Does this mean we're friends? (except blue is so terrible on that car)

Edited by Elite_Deforce

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Does this mean we're friends? (except blue is so terrible on that car)

 

Dunno if we're friends or not with this car... :lol:

 

Candy royal blue with a touch of purple pearl is one of my favorite automotive colors and one I will put on any sports car. I was going for a Cobra Daytona Coupe vibe with this one when I built it back in '93. It started off silver in '92, when I was autocrossing it in rotary form for the first year:

 

rx7b2.jpg

 

When the rotary died, I installed a nearly 400 hp Ford 302...

 

rxeng1.jpg

 

rx7f.jpg

 

rx7g.jpg

 

rx7e.jpg

 

rexrear2.jpg

 

And autocrossed it and street drove it for 5 years after that...

 

http://home.comcast.net/~adesso/rex3.wmv

Edited by Chris V.

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Dunno if we're friends or not with this car... :lol:

 

Candy royal blue with a touch of purple pearl is one of my favorite automotive colors and one I will put on any sports car. I was going for a Cobra Daytona Coupe vibe with this one when I built it back in '93. It started off silver in '92, when I was autocrossing it in rotary form for the first year:

 

rx7b2.jpg

 

When the rotary died, I installed a nearly 400 hp Ford 302...

 

rxeng1.jpg

 

rx7f.jpg

 

rx7g.jpg

 

rx7e.jpg

 

rexrear2.jpg

 

And autocrossed it and street drove it for 5 years after that...

 

http://home.comcast.net/~adesso/rex3.wmv

Before I cry, would you like to explain to me what you think of my ever-so-popular engine?

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I think it looks good, except for the hole in the hood

The hole in the hood is necessary, elsewise he would have to get a hood custom made to fit the intake, which is expensive. However, had it been my project, I would have spent the cash, there is nothing more disturbing than a huge hole in the hood with the air filter sticking out.

Edited by Elite_Deforce

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The car had already been painted in candy blue with purple pearl in the initial clearcoat, whith the white stripes painted on under the final clearcoat when it was still rotary powered. And at the time it had no hole in the hood

 

Rxbg.jpg

 

In order to have put a hood scoop on it that looked right (I wanted a 2" cowl induction hood) I would have to repaint almost the entire car, due to the way candy paint is sprayed (candy paint is a tinted clear that gets it's shade from how many coats are put on, and has to be done evenly over teh entire car. if you go back and try to blend in new paint, the overlapped areas will be darker, but of you mak off adjacent areas on only paint the affected panel, it WILL be a different color. WAY too much effort and cost, considering the whole reason for the swap was saving money over rebuilding the dead 13B). Also, teh car had the optional aluminum hood that saved a tone of weight, and making fiberglass adhere to the aluminum is a very daunting task, as it flexes more than steel does.

 

 

Before this RX7, I had had an R100, RX2, 2 RX3s, a bonkers ported 13B powered SA RX7 and a stock FB RX7. I crewed with an SCCA pro Rally RX2 team and with a team that ran both an IMSA RS RX3 and a rotary powered Formula Libra. I've hand ported a lot of rotaries, and rebuilt at least one of them on my dinding room table (note to single guys, do NOT do this if married...). I've put rotaries in other cars, from VW Bugs to an MG Midget.

 

This FC died one day, at about 100k miles. Spit an apex seal out the exhaust port, destroying the rer rotor, rear aluminum housing, rear and mid steel housings in the process. All off of what was determined to be a tiny bit of pinging when the injection ran lean for a moment. the later 13B woudl have cost about 42500 to rebuild with new parts. No way was I going to chance used rotary housings. And that was just to get it back to 145 hp form. Porting could have got me to 180 hp, and 300 hp was the Cartech turbo kit that cost a minimum of $3500 at the time. OTOH, I had a nice little small block Ford sitting there out of a friends drag race pinto that had been tuned to run to 8500 rpm. I put a lowrise manifold on it and an Edelbrock carb, and which made top rom be 7500, but fattened up the botom end. It no longer made 400 hp, but was about 360 at the crank. the edelbrock turned out not to be able to go around corners (the car could pull over 1G laterally) so I swapped to a modded Holley 4 bbl that was set up for circle track racing. Solved the cornering problems.

 

The car ended up weighing 2720lbs, with a 49/51 f/r weight distribution. around 400 lb ft of torque (something the rotary was lacking in) but still had the same top rpm. I really miss this car, but it wouldn't have been emissions legal where I am now...

Edited by Chris V.

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The hole in the hood is necessary, elsewise he would have to get a hood custom made to fit the intake, which is expensive. However, had it been my project, I would have spent the cash, there is nothing more disturbing than a huge hole in the hood with the air filter sticking out.

I know it's necessary, I know aftermarket intakes. I was just saying if that wasn't the case, I would like it more. But that still leaves 99% of the car that looks great.

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The car had already been painted in candy blue with purple pearl in the initial clearcoat, whith the white stripes painted on under the final clearcoat when it was still rotary powered. And at the time it had no hole in the hood

 

Rxbg.jpg

 

In order to have put a hood scoop on it that looked right (I wanted a 2" cowl induction hood) I would have to repaint almost the entire car, due to the way candy paint is sprayed (candy paint is a tinted clear that gets it's shade from how many coats are put on, and has to be done evenly over teh entire car. if you go back and try to blend in new paint, the overlapped areas will be darker, but of you mak off adjacent areas on only paint the affected panel, it WILL be a different color. WAY too much effort and cost, considering the whole reason for the swap was saving money over rebuilding the dead 13B). Also, teh car had the optional aluminum hood that saved a tone of weight, and making fiberglass adhere to the aluminum is a very daunting task, as it flexes more than steel does.

 

 

Before this RX7, I had had an R100, RX2, 2 RX3s, a bonkers ported 13B powered SA RX7 and a stock FB RX7. I crewed with an SCCA pro Rally RX2 team and with a team that ran both an IMSA RS RX3 and a rotary powered Formula Libra. I've hand ported a lot of rotaries, and rebuilt at least one of them on my dinding room table (note to single guys, do NOT do this if married...). I've put rotaries in other cars, from VW Bugs to an MG Midget.

 

This FC died one day, at about 100k miles. Spit an apex seal out the exhaust port, destroying the rer rotor, rear aluminum housing, rear and mid steel housings in the process. All off of what was determined to be a tiny bit of pinging when the injection ran lean for a moment. the later 13B woudl have cost about 42500 to rebuild with new parts. No way was I going to chance used rotary housings. And that was just to get it back to 145 hp form. Porting could have got me to 180 hp, and 300 hp was the Cartech turbo kit that cost a minimum of $3500 at the time. OTOH, I had a nice little small block Ford sitting there out of a friends drag race pinto that had been tuned to run to 8500 rpm. I put a lowrise manifold on it and an Edelbrock carb, and which made top rom be 7500, but fattened up the botom end. It no longer made 400 hp, but was about 360 at the crank. the edelbrock turned out not to be able to go around corners (the car could pull over 1G laterally) so I swapped to a modded Holley 4 bbl that was set up for circle track racing. Solved the cornering problems.

 

The car ended up weighing 2720lbs, with a 49/51 f/r weight distribution. around 400 lb ft of torque (something the rotary was lacking in) but still had the same top rpm. I really miss this car, but it wouldn't have been emissions legal where I am now...

Interesting stuff. Both our cars are just an example that they can last past 100K miles. :lol:

 

I find it hard to be believe that a rebuild would cost that much, it sounds ridiculous. You could have always imported a 20B.

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Interesting stuff. Both our cars are just an example that they can last past 100K miles. ;)

 

I find it hard to be believe that a rebuild would cost that much, it sounds ridiculous. You could have always imported a 20B.

 

 

A couple things, back in '93, when I built this car, yes, it cost that much to buy a new seal set (all new side seals and apex seals, as well as corner buttons and water seals) AND a new rotor, aluminum housing, center and rear steel housings. The days of cheap 12A rebuilds were long gone at that point. Stock rebuilds could last as long as original factory engines, but only had 145 hp and spending that much money to only get 145 hp seemed wrong. I could have ported it like I did the early 13B and 12A engines, but modded rotaries didn't last very long, and still didn't make enough torque for the heavier FC (compared to the SA/FB or even my old RX3). Turbocharging rotaries was in it's infancy, and the 300 hp Cartech turbo kit for the NA was over $3500 just for the kit, and the engine would still have to be rebuilt first. Good condition 13B turbo engines were big money then, and buying a used rotary is a crapshoot anyhow. And a 20B? A the time, that would have been $5k-$10k to complete (documented on RX7Club.com) AND would have done exactly what the rotary purists said the V8 did: add more weight farther forward and ruin the balance of the car. The V8 st far enough back, was light enough, that it actually weighed LESS than a stock FC RX7 Turbo II (2800+ lbs). And interestingly, the FC Turbo II and my car are identical from the firewall back, so ALL my weight savings was in the nose!

 

I had already been playing with rotary powered cars for many years. I decided that this car (and FCs at the time were considered secretary cars anyhow, and rotary fans told each other to avoid them, considering you could spend a bunch of money and get a new FD, or get a real race car SA/FB RX7 or RX3) would be more fun to make a classic hot rod out of. One that still went around corners.

 

Some peopel said if I wanted a Mustang/Camaro, I shoudl have bought one. That makes it seem that RX7 fans think that other than the engine, the FC is identical to a Mustang or Camaro, and that the engine is the only part of the car that makes it worth anything. I disagree. I think the FC is MUCH lighter, better looking, has better suspension and brakes, is better looking, has better ergonomics, better build quality, and oh, did mention, I think it's better looking?

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A couple things, back in '93, when I built this car, yes, it cost that much to buy a new seal set (all new side seals and apex seals, as well as corner buttons and water seals) AND a new rotor, aluminum housing, center and rear steel housings. The days of cheap 12A rebuilds were long gone at that point. Stock rebuilds could last as long as original factory engines, but only had 145 hp and spending that much money to only get 145 hp seemed wrong. I could have ported it like I did the early 13B and 12A engines, but modded rotaries didn't last very long, and still didn't make enough torque for the heavier FC (compared to the SA/FB or even my old RX3). Turbocharging rotaries was in it's infancy, and the 300 hp Cartech turbo kit for the NA was over $3500 just for the kit, and the engine would still have to be rebuilt first. Good condition 13B turbo engines were big money then, and buying a used rotary is a crapshoot anyhow. And a 20B? A the time, that would have been $5k-$10k to complete (documented on RX7Club.com) AND would have done exactly what the rotary purists said the V8 did: add more weight farther forward and ruin the balance of the car. The V8 st far enough back, was light enough, that it actually weighed LESS than a stock FC RX7 Turbo II (2800+ lbs). And interestingly, the FC Turbo II and my car are identical from the firewall back, so ALL my weight savings was in the nose!

 

I had already been playing with rotary powered cars for many years. I decided that this car (and FCs at the time were considered secretary cars anyhow, and rotary fans told each other to avoid them, considering you could spend a bunch of money and get a new FD, or get a real race car SA/FB RX7 or RX3) would be more fun to make a classic hot rod out of. One that still went around corners.

 

Some peopel said if I wanted a Mustang/Camaro, I shoudl have bought one. That makes it seem that RX7 fans think that other than the engine, the FC is identical to a Mustang or Camaro, and that the engine is the only part of the car that makes it worth anything. I disagree. I think the FC is MUCH lighter, better looking, has better suspension and brakes, is better looking, has better ergonomics, better build quality, and oh, did mention, I think it's better looking?

No you're totally right, the FC was tons better than the Mustang or Camaro of the time. But the thing is that the car was built around the engine, so it is tricky for purists (such as myself) to justify putting anything else in.

 

I didn't realize the costs of that kind of setup (as I was like what, 12 at the time?). And I know a 20b swap would be that much, I was suggesting it anyway ;).

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Aww you and your Wankels ;)

 

Meanwhile in the real world of torque, V8's and TDI engines... :lol: :lol:

Edited by 2007DBR9

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Aww you and your Wankels ;)

 

Meanwhile in the real world of torque, V8's and TDI engines... :lol: :lol:

How many times do I have to prove this point. Wankels have torque.

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