redjay 0 Report post Posted December 10, 2009 Hey all, I just got a V6 1994 Chevy Camaro with 117,770 on it. Picked it up from a garage that fixed it up, apparently it was a North Carolina car and the freeze out plug went on it so the guy wanted to scrap it here it NJ. So, new freeze out plug and a cooling hose (their pressure check said all was well with the cooling system), I just put a new battery and alternator in it, cleaned it up inside and out, and its a pretty sweet car. But because its a used car and the garage didnt know much about it before they got it, Im concerned up the maintenance. It seems to run fine now with the alternator but it needs to get inspected so is there anything I should look out for? Are there certain things that a Camaro around this year and mileage would need? Im planning on doing a full tune up soon but with the cash flow and all, it'll probably get done after the inspection. It needs a radiator flush, the oil and trans fluid all look fine, it really needs 2 new tires, the muffler will probably need to be replaced sooner or later, and the only thing that bothers me are the warning lights. Before I put the new alternator in, i was getting "Check gages" (the oil pressure gage is shot) but it hasn't come back since and I was getting the "Service Engine" light if i went over 50MPH but it goes off after the car is turned off for 5 minutes. Im guessing a faulty wire somewhere. Plus the thermostat needs to be put in, the air only blows cold and the temp gauge never reaches where its supposed to. But yah, any ideas would be great. Car runs fine and all, but Im looking for anything I should look into for my car. Thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
System_51 0 Report post Posted December 11, 2009 Hey all, I just got a V6 1994 Chevy Camaro with 117,770 on it. Picked it up from a garage that fixed it up, apparently it was a North Carolina car and the freeze out plug went on it so the guy wanted to scrap it here it NJ. So, new freeze out plug and a cooling hose (their pressure check said all was well with the cooling system), I just put a new battery and alternator in it, cleaned it up inside and out, and its a pretty sweet car. But because its a used car and the garage didnt know much about it before they got it, Im concerned up the maintenance. It seems to run fine now with the alternator but it needs to get inspected so is there anything I should look out for? Are there certain things that a Camaro around this year and mileage would need? Im planning on doing a full tune up soon but with the cash flow and all, it'll probably get done after the inspection. It needs a radiator flush, the oil and trans fluid all look fine, it really needs 2 new tires, the muffler will probably need to be replaced sooner or later, and the only thing that bothers me are the warning lights. Before I put the new alternator in, i was getting "Check gages" (the oil pressure gage is shot) but it hasn't come back since and I was getting the "Service Engine" light if i went over 50MPH but it goes off after the car is turned off for 5 minutes. Im guessing a faulty wire somewhere. Plus the thermostat needs to be put in, the air only blows cold and the temp gauge never reaches where its supposed to. But yah, any ideas would be great. Car runs fine and all, but Im looking for anything I should look into for my car. Thanks. You should have them pull the codes to tell you what they mean, before chasing things down. I know that Advance and Autozone used to do this for free (on the knowledge that you'd probably buy parts from them if they did). I'd at least do an oil / filter change - Castrol is running a promo now where you get a rebate of $15 if you buy 5 qts. Though you could certainly go with store brand oil and probably get it done for cheaper. Just an option. Find out what the codes mean and come back... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
redjay 0 Report post Posted December 11, 2009 Autozones around here told me they can only test cars from 1996 and later because they only have the ODBII system, not the I. So Id have to have a mechanic around here with the proper computer to check it out unless I want to buy one for $100. But the lights arent on anymore except for the engine light that comes one rarely, but wouldnt the lights have to be on while the test is being done? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
System_51 0 Report post Posted December 11, 2009 From another forum: Here is a way to check for trouble codes yourself. The data link connector is located in the passenger compartment under the drivers side of the dash. Terminal B of the connector is the test terminal and terminal A is the ground used for diagnostic display. Take a paper clip and use it as a jumper between these two terminals on the connector. Turn the key to where the dash lights come on but engine not running, the system will enter the diagnostic mode. In this mode, the computer will display a Code 12, three consecutive times, by flashing the "CHECK ENGINE" or "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light. A Code 12 consists of one flash, a short pause, then two flashes in rapid succession. After Code 12 is displayed, any stored trouble codes will be displayed by flashing the "CHECK ENGINE" or "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light. All codes are displayed 3 times each then a code 12 will repeat. Not sure if that helps or not. Once you have the code, then you can look it up online. Here's a more concise explanation of what to do (with pictures!): http://www.obd-codes.com/faq/read-gm-2-dig...-codes-free.php This may or may not work, I know that Autozones and NAPA stores here used to "rent" tools out and I believe that a scanner was one of those tools - might call around? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bfeeney 0 Report post Posted December 12, 2009 Autozones around here told me they can only test cars from 1996 and later because they only have the ODBII system, not the I. So Id have to have a mechanic around here with the proper computer to check it out unless I want to buy one for $100. But the lights arent on anymore except for the engine light that comes one rarely, but wouldnt the lights have to be on while the test is being done? To check a GM OBD1 system (and I am absolutely serious about this) get a paper clip that doesn't have the plastic on it, stretch it out, bend it in a tight 'U' and stick it in the 2 top left ports of the diag connector. Then watch your dash because the check engine light will flash kind of in morse code. Write them down! The first code will be a 12 so it's - --. that's your 'I'm in diag mode' code. Then it will start doing any stored codes, like --- -- is 32, -- ----- is 25, and so on. When it's done it will do 12 again saying 'I'm done'. Then look up the numbers (Haynes manual, internet, ?Autozone?). To clear the codes disconnect the battery for 20 or so seconds (you need a 5/16" wrench). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ghost 0 Report post Posted December 13, 2009 Autozones around here told me they can only test cars from 1996 and later because they only have the ODBII system, not the I. So Id have to have a mechanic around here with the proper computer to check it out unless I want to buy one for $100. But the lights arent on anymore except for the engine light that comes one rarely, but wouldnt the lights have to be on while the test is being done? the cheap code readers usually one show you the active codes for the engine only if i remember correctly, it might show you stored codes... but if your tranny's ecu is throwing a code it will light up the MIL light but when you plug in you won't get a code because the code reader dosent read tranny codes. best bet is to take it to a chevy dealership and have them plug in the Genesis II... that will read any and all codes stored and active in your ECU(s), or atleast it did when i was playing around with the Genesis a couple of years back. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
redjay 0 Report post Posted December 13, 2009 Wow, great ideas. Ill try it out as soon as I can. Wondering about the tranny codes tho, it seems to throw the light if the engine is still reading cold (havent done the thermostat yet), drive up to 50/60 mph, and as its slowing down it will turn the Service Engine Soon light. Really hoping it isnt the trans, it runs fine and all but i dont have the cash for a new trans right now. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bfeeney 0 Report post Posted December 14, 2009 the cheap code readers usually one show you the active codes for the engine only if i remember correctly, it might show you stored codes... but if your tranny's ecu is throwing a code it will light up the MIL light but when you plug in you won't get a code because the code reader dosent read tranny codes. best bet is to take it to a chevy dealership and have them plug in the Genesis II... that will read any and all codes stored and active in your ECU(s), or atleast it did when i was playing around with the Genesis a couple of years back. Will a tranny issue show up on a OBD1? I've never seen it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Elite_Deforce 1 Report post Posted December 15, 2009 Will a tranny issue show up on a OBD1? I've never seen it. Same. Actually I even think some early OBDII systems dont read tranny either. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
redjay 0 Report post Posted December 16, 2009 rats. well, i tried the paper clip in the scanner port, didnt work. the "service engine soon" light didnt even flash with the power on and the car not running. Also, had the thermostat replaced and the radiator flushed (its pretty filthy brown in there a bit) and the heat still doesnt work. it blows, and i think i can hear the blend-door opening up for heat instead of AC, but it still doesnt get hot. the temp gauge hardly reaches temperature properly even with the new thermostat. and after not seeing the engine light for a while, it came on today. So im screwed, still trying to find a place that do a ODBI scan thats not 80 bucks but its gotta get inspected in the morning, we'll see what happens. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Elite_Deforce 1 Report post Posted December 16, 2009 There should be places wholl do it for free. But it sounds like your core is screwed. Did you notice any leaks on your driveway or something? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
redjay 0 Report post Posted December 16, 2009 havent noticed any leaks or anything, and the usual "the interior rugs on the passenger side will be damp if the heater core blows" doesnt apply either. if it wasnt so damn cold out around here now, id spend whole days checking everything out but i cant get the car in the garage either. after inspection im going to try to get some space clear so i can work on it without freezing my arse off. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Elite_Deforce 1 Report post Posted December 16, 2009 havent noticed any leaks or anything, and the usual "the interior rugs on the passenger side will be damp if the heater core blows" doesnt apply either. if it wasnt so damn cold out around here now, id spend whole days checking everything out but i cant get the car in the garage either. after inspection im going to try to get some space clear so i can work on it without freezing my arse off. Good plan. Having a good space to work in is so important. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wally 0 Report post Posted December 16, 2009 Bit of trivia for the members. You know one of us CarForumites was a lead engineer on the development of the OBD1 for GM? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
redjay 0 Report post Posted December 16, 2009 was it YOU, WALLY? WAS IT?! On a side note, this car continues to be the devil. Went to inspection, failed for the parking brake and the back brakes balance results. Im gonna clean the bejeezis out of the rear brakes and take a look at them and see if i can figure out what to do, same goes for the ebrake. But the heat however is a new adventure. It seems two plugs from the water pump on both sides of the thermostat do not have tubes on them, the right hose is plugged and not connected, the left receiver, well, i cant even find the hose that is supposed to cover it. So these coolant hoses arent being used, probably because of a heater core problem that was bypassed when the car was in north carolina. So, after i figure out the brakes, ill follow the heater core and water pump hoses, see what isnt connected, fix it, try out the heater core, and if it leaks, replace the core or if the hoses from the core are busted, fit a bigger hose over them and clamp them down. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites