So recently I replaced the driver's side wheel bearing on my 1999 Ford Taurus. Everything went on fine, but now when I drive above a certain speed and I let up a little bi of grip on the steering wheel it starts to shake and the car goes to the left .
At first I wondered if this was a wheel alignment, but they've out of alignment since I got it back in 2015, and it was never this bad.
I have a couple of theories as to what it could be:
A. Tire alignment. (getting that done now regardless)
B. Perhaps I didn't tighten the three bolts on the hub enough. (Used hand tools, tightened them down as much as I could, couldn't reach the torque wrench in there)
C. Maybe the passenger side needs done now, it's a 20 year car so maybe, the reason I think it might be this maybe both of them were bad, but maybe the driver side was worse so I noticed it more, and now that I fixed the worse one the other one is showing how bad it is.
D. I may have damaged something on the driver side, because I was beating the crap out of that hub assembly with a hammer and may have hit a couple things I didn't mean to. (Entirely possible because I'm not the best aim with a hammer (I'm also not a trained mechanic, just a kid who learned how to work on cars through YouTube videos, and admittedly I'm kind a dumb)

Or maybe I'm wrong on all accounts and it's something different wrong all together.
If anyone has any advice please let me hear it, at this point I'm thinking about taking it into a shop and having a full inspection done on everything, and see if they think I messed up real bad.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6m9m7xo7c7wpbxk/20181113_104201.mp4?dl=0

I have a friend who owns a Chevy Trailblazer 2002 LTZ, (Vortec 4200 4.2L)

There's a weird clicking noise coming from the front of the car.

New battery, oil is good, bearings are old, the clicking has been going on for years.

Car is completely stock.

The clicking noise come randomly, on the highway, idling etc...

A/C being on or off doesn't change anything.

Hey guys. I bought my 2005 buick terraza back in May 2018 and it has been nothing but problems. When I bought the car, the check engine light was on and the dealership told us they were 99% sure it was the gas cap and they changed it out for us. Of course that wasn't the problem. They wanted to keep my car for a couple of weeks to fix the problem but I needed my car to get to and from work so I decided to fix it myself. It was throwing a P0449 code so I changed the vent valve solenoid. Light was still on so I checked the wire harness and it was extremely corroded. I tried to clean up the connectors but it only made it worse because pieces of it came off. I tried to start my car and the accessories came on but it wouldnt crank. I noticed a whirring sound coming from the center of the car while trying to start it. After trying about 8 times, it finally started. My dad bypassed the connectors and it fixed the check engine light problem and I hoped it would fix the problem starting the car but this morning it did it again. Usually after you get it to start, it doesn't happen until having the car off for hours. Any ideas on what this might be or things I can check? I think it might be the fuel pump but not sure

The car also has trouble on freeways with accelerating. Once it gets into 3rd gear (around 55 mph), the RPMs get stuck at the 2 and I have to let off the gas to get it unstuck. When I let off the gas and push back down on the pedal, it jumps up to the 3 and then goes back down to normal.

I have a 2004 Mazda 6 V4 2.3L, I am pretty sure that a rod is broken or something (because the engine knocks, I have had two people that were interested in buying it and not buy it because its a rob). At start up there is white smoke but it goes away after a little while, don't think it is a head gasket because there are no other symptoms. I think gas is getting in the oil, it kinda smells like gas and when I changed the oil, after running the car the dip stick was quit a bit higher then what it was before I ran the car. There was also metal shavings in the oil filter. I have about $530 in the car (Including purchase, taxes and parts). My question is, would it be a good idea to sell the car or fix it? Or should I buy another Mazda 6 and use this one as spare parts.

If i just buy another Mazda 6, what is a good year that is fairly interchangeable from a 2004?

Is this a common problem with 04 Mazda 6 or just the V4 engine?

Hi everyone,

I have a small conundrum and i was hoping to get opinions between two vehicles.

The two vehicles are the 2019 Subaru WRX (manual) and the 2018 Honda Civic Si (manual). I plan to drive one of the two for the next 2 years.

Because of the lending restrictions backing Subaru and Honda, I only have the option to purchase the Subaru outright for ~$28,000. Based on estimates from a range of different car depreciation calculators, at the 2 year mark, all other things held constant, this car would sell for ~$19,500. In this case, I would pay $28k upfront and not take financing.

Alternatively, I have the option to lease the Honda for 24 months with the total expenditure over 24 months coming to $10,608.

I know there is about 50-60 Horsepower difference between the two and smaller differences such as handbrake, cameras, gear stick smooth transmission. But I would like to get the collective knowledge of this forum to evaluate which option is the better value option?

Thank you for your help!