Car won't start, tried everything
Posted 11 June 2012 - 02:36 PM
I have a 98 Escort, 2.0 SPI SOHC. Motor turns over but will not start. I was cruising along on the highway and it just crapped out on me and I got stuck on the side of the road. (I know you need three things to start a car: fuel, spark, and timing)
Fuel: 1: I can hear the fuel pump priming with key in "ON" position"
2: Fuel pressure measured at fuel rail port, ~55psi (this is within specs outlined in my Haynes manual)
3: After cranking motor, when spark plugs are removed they have a significant amount of fuel on them
Spark: 1: I have replaced all spark plugs.
2: I have removed each plug individually, plugged them into their repsective wires, grounded them on the cylinder head and cranked the motor. I can see that each plug fires with a good white spark at regular intervals.
Timing: 1: I removed the timing belt cover, replaced the timing belt and tensioner, and ensured that the timing marks were lined up perfectly after rotating the engine several times after installation.
2: I have replaced the camshaft position sensor
3: I have replaced the crankshaft position sensor
4: I have replaced the coolant temperature sensor (sending unit for computer, not the one for the gauge, the latter of which should be inconsequential here)
Additionally, I have sprayed ether into the air intake housing and it has literally no effect. Also, there are no trouble codes stored on the computer when I use my OBDII scanner.
Please, please, please, if anyone has any ideas, please help. I'd really appreciate it.
Posted 15 June 2012 - 07:25 AM
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Edited by Chris V., 18 June 2012 - 12:32 PM.
Posted 18 June 2012 - 11:40 AM
Especially with the starting fluid.
I can tell by your post you know what your talking about so I'm sure your plugs are wired correctly.
Before you waste any more money using the trial and error method, take car to the dealership and have hooked up to diagnostic.
This HAS to be in the cars computer system. Sorry I couldn't give you something more concrete, but hopefully you won't throw anymore money away. Although your ignition system is practically all new! Good luck!!!
Posted 19 June 2012 - 02:49 PM
Posted 04 July 2012 - 12:18 PM
1: I was thinking that turning the engine over so much after replacing all these parts might have dried up the cylinder walls, so I may have been losing compression. I took the plugs out and poured a little motor oil into each cylinder, waited about 20 minutes for it to sink down some. Then I cranked the motor a couple times to clear the cylinders, put the plugs back in, and tried again. I got it running for about 20 seconds while it spewed smoke out the tailpipe. I expected the smoke, since I did pour motor oil into the cylinders after all. After the 20 seconds of extremely labored chugging, it pretty much settled back into its previous state of not wanting to start at all.
2: I got a computer out of a junkyard and tried putting that in. No effect. Obviously, since it was a junkyard computer, this doesn't exactly eliminate that as a suspect part. But I did expect some change from the state it was in before, and this expectation was not met.
I've pretty much decided I'm going to get rid of the car at this point, it's not worth going through all this crap. Before I do that though I'm going to check the compression with a gague in each cylinder (just to satisfy my curiosity). I suspect I may have blown the head gasket in one of the spaces between cylinders. After the car has been sitting for a while, when I crank the motor it WANTS to start, but rarely gets past a couple of chugs before it just gives up. It has been displaying that symptom the entire time.
For Inxs7144, I'll post the results to satisfy your curiosity as well, and I thank you for your interest and concern.
Posted 02 August 2012 - 06:00 AM
Hope this helps. Good luck!
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Edited by Chris V., 02 August 2012 - 02:22 PM.
Posted 16 January 2013 - 01:22 PM
Posted 30 March 2013 - 01:10 AM
Examine once again your cabling and joints. Probably there may be wrong cabling and look into the internal mild for a red mild. If it is lighted then the immobilizer is on. Also look into the petrol cut out change, which may have turned off while battery pack was flat . . . . . . . . . .
Edited by AndReWs1, 13 October 2015 - 02:39 AM.
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